Sternum Shape and Bra Fit

Cora over at The Lingerie Addict asked me why the gores tack on her 34C bras but only tack at the top but not the bottom on her 32Ds and don't tack at all on her 30DD/E bras. This sounds counter-intuitive to most fit information because we learn that when your band is too big the gore stands away from your breast bone so why would Cora's gores tack in big bands but not smaller band sister sizes? The answer lies in ribcage and sternum shape.

Band Size and Ribcage Shape
Let's start with the band. When we measure around our ribcage (the parallel line directly below your breast root) it tells us the circumference of only part of our ribcage. Bra bands are several inches deep and wrap around a greater depth than the single ribcage measurement we can take with a measuring tape. I want to make it clear that the underbust measurement is well worth taking because it's a great starting point but for lots of women it needs to be taken in conjunction with other bra fit factors.

If you have a broad back or a flared ribcage (it's worth reading my article on torso shape and bra fit) then your band has to stretch around large and small circumferences simultaneously. The measuring tape measurement probably tells you the smallest circumference that your bra band will stretch around which is why someone like Cora can measure a 30 around but find her best fit in a 34 band because her ribcage might flare out into a broader back or acute angle which is better suited to a larger band.

Cora, The Lingerie Addict, in a shoot by Old School Pinups wearing Kiss Me Deadly Sirena Corset

In a 30 band Cora's bra is staining over a wider part of her ribcage which lifts the gore away from her sternum at the front. In a 32 band the strain is less so the gore is tilted and fits either at the top and not the bottom of vice versa. In a 34 band the strain is relieved and the gore can sit flush against the sternum. Women with flared ribcages sometimes find that they get some hollow space just below their gore where they can fit several fingers underneath their gore - the is quite normal and in general doesn't detrimentally affect fit.

Breast Bone Shape
The other fit factor to consider when a larger band fits you better than a smaller one is the angle and shape of your breast bone. When you measure around your ribcage it cannot take into account the shape of your breast bone (sternum). When your sternum is acutely angled or protruding you often find that you need either a very short gore than sits below your sternum or you need a larger band to accommodate the shape of the breast bone. You may find that your breast bone hollows where your gore is meant to tack, or that it protrudes more at the top than the bottom. This shaping of your sternum affects which band size and gore height will work best for you.

The band number and cup letters are far less important than finding a fit that feels right to you so don't worry if you measure a 28GG but find that a 30G or 32FF fits you better, it could very well be that other aspects of your torso are affecting your fit. xx

Diversity in Lingerie - Diversity in Life

On Tuesday August 21st 2013 June, from Braless in Brasil, launched a campaign called #DiversityinLingerie. Posting a picture of herself in her beautiful post-babies--over 30--a life fully led--stretch marks--and--skin glory June reminds us that we don't see enough physical diversity in lingerie. This means lingerie brands, catwalk shows and retailers don't use a diverse range of models to promote and demonstrate their styles which means millions of women are not represented in an industry for women. We are gradually seeing more plus size models as part of mainstream lingerie marketing but what about women of colour, varying abilities, gender, stretch marks/scars, tattoos, amputees, heights?

I'm not qualified to speak on most of these subjects, however, trail blazers like The Lingerie Addict and The Lingerie Lesbian are creating forums in which women can learn, empathize and be empowered. By challenging preconceptions and highlighting pioneering brands like Kiss Me Deadly and Chrysalis Lingerie, these bloggers aim to make diversity in lingerie a reality. This is not going to be an overnight achievement and from consumer expectations to marketing execution there is a long way to go to bring about true diversity in lingerie promotion.

I wanted to contribute to this conversation about what Diversity in Lingerie means to me. My primary interest as both a bra fitter and blogger is understanding a busty woman's relationship with her body/breasts and giving her the knowledge to feel confident, beautiful and peaceful. What I've come to know is that the diversity of women's relationships with lingerie is vast. How women identify with lingerie, how they use it, what they want from it, how it makes them feel, these are the diversities that I am keenly focused on. 

I am 100% behind the purpose to encourage more physical representation and diversity in lingerie promotion. I would add to this that I would love to see more diversity in the portrayal of women's relationships with lingerie (I elaborated on this in a recent article for The Lingerie Addict). The majority of advertising and marketing we see around lingerie positions it as a delicacy, a thing to be enjoyed in isolation, but lingerie is for life! Lingerie is not an option for some, it's essential for many women to lead their lives confidently and comfortably.

I would love to see a greater diversity in the portrayal of life in lingerie. Here of some of my clients' relationships with lingerie:
1) Roller Derby girls who want bold patterns in designs that can withstand extreme sports.
2) Post-surgery women (some of whom are facing months of recovery) who want more sizes and variation in post operative bras.
3) Nursing Moms who are learning how to fend off social commentary, gain confidence in their new role and body as well as physically manage the rigors of breastfeeding.
4) Professional sports women who are defying the big boob stereotypes and sexism they encounter to pursue their profession with breast support and confidence.
5) Emergency workers who need extreme support during their days but want the diversity of colour and design that lesser impact bras take for granted.
6) Women over 75 with heavy busts whose bone density has changed considerably. Their desire for elegant and beautiful lingerie has not changed but the design and support of their bras is very different from a 22 year old's.

The #DiversityinLingerie campaign is insightful, powerful and inspiring and I hope you take time to read some, if not all, of these posts. Women are as diverse in nature and purpose as we are in looks and physicality. Our diversity is fascinating and beautiful and we can learn a great deal from it. xx

Braless in Brasil
The Breast Life
The Lingerie Addict
Thin and Curvy
Bras and Body Image
Les Gros Bonnets
Wide Curves
Fussy Busty
Under the Unders
Kurvendiskussionen
Curvy Wordy
The Absurd Curvy Nerd
The Full Figured Chest
Muscular Hourglass

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Posts that are live:
Braless in Brasil
Les Gros Bonnet
Wide Curves
By Baby's Rules
Kurvendiskussionen
The Full Figured Chest
Curvy Wordy
Under the Unders
Muscular Hourglass
The Absurd Curvy Nerd
The Lingerie Addict
Bras and Body Image
Thin and Curvy
Anytime Yoga
Pretty Big Bras - See more at: http://www.bralessinbrasil.com/2013/08/diversityinlingerie.html#sthash.6eag3Rfd.dpuf

Directory of Full Bust Bloggers

Since I started blogging about Butterfly Collection bras and life for busty women the bra blogosphere has grown a lot! There is a wealth of diverse women writing about different breast sizes and shapes, fashion for busty and/or plus size and bra fit. To help you figure out which bloggers are right for you I've compiled a directory broken down by theme:

26-30 Band Full Bust Bloggers
These bloggers are very knowledgeable about the style, fit and comfort issues associated with being small in the band and large in the cup.
Invest in Your Chest
Curvy Wordy
Busts 4 Justice
Thin and Curvy
Le Curvy Kitten
Braless in Brazil
By Baby's Rules
Bras and Body Image
Venusian Glow
Undercover Lingerista
Quest for the Perfect Bra
A Sophisticated Pair
Miss Underpinnings
Obsessed with Breasts
Bras I Hate

32+ Band Full Bust Bloggers
These bloggers are full busted (D+ cups) and range from regular dress sizes to plus size.
Fuller Figure Fuller Bust
XL Hourglass
Fussy Busty
Bra Nightmares
The Full Figured Chest
Hourglassy

Boudoir, Sleepwear and General Lingerie Reviews
These bloggers cover lingerie not specific to the full bust market. Beautiful to look at and some pieces that work for full bust women, these bloggers are well worth checking out.
The Lingerie Addict
Sweet Nothings NYC
The Full Figured Chest
The Lingerie Lesbian

Full Bust Bra Fitting Advice
Considering that bra fit is essential for feeling comfortable and supported it's no wonder this is such a widely discussed topic. As a professional bra fitter I take this subject very seriously and I recommend these sites for their bra fitting advice.
Venusian Glow Fitting
Boosaurus Fitting
Thin and Curvy Fitting
Invest in Your Chest Fitting
Fuller Figure Fuller Bust Fitting
Braless in Brasil Fitting
Sweet Nothing NYC Fitting

Full Bust Clothing Reviews (non-plus size)
Clothing for full bust women can be very tricky. A lot of clothing isn't tailored for dramatic curves so these reviews are really helpful for working out which brands and styles work for full busts.
Thin and Curvy Clothes
Curvy Wordy 
Bras and Body Image Clothes
Bras I Hate Clothing
Hourglassy Clothing (Campbell and Kate Shirts)
Quest for a Perfect Bra Clothing
Miss Underpinnings Style
Le Curvy Kitten

Full Bust Clothing Reviews (plus-size)
If you are full busted and also a plus size woman then finding clothes can be doubly difficult sometimes. These reviewers find clothing and styles for plus sized full bust women.
Fuller Figure Fuller Bust Clothing
Curvy Wordy

I hope you find this list useful, I will update it whenever I can. There is such a wealth of knowledge out there and it can help you feel happy, confident and comfortable in your full bust life! xx

Video - How Bra Seams Change Your Breast Shape

The next installment of my video-blog (vlog) is live and this week I'm talking about how bra seams work to change your breast shape. I know that seamed bras are a bit daunting for some women so I hope this post will help you understand them a little better so you can consider trying one next time you're bra shopping.

Something I didn't get to mention in the video is that seams give your bra stability and keep your breasts in place. Some molded cups will cause your breasts to slide around inside them whereas a well-fitting seamed bra will keep your breasts in place. xx

First Video Blog Post!

Hi Everyone - a very quick post to let you know that my first video blog entry is up. I'll be creating these every couple of weeks to add some context to the things I write about here as well as highlighting great bra and boob articles from around the web.

I'll also cover bra fitting issues as well as answering specific customer and reader questions that arise in the week. I hope you find it useful and please let me know if you have any suggestions for things you'd like me to talk about. Happy Friday! xx

How Your Posture Affects Your Bra Fit

Image from Ghetto Nurd website

Large breasts are heavy, very heavy. Imagine carrying a couple of bags of sugar around your neck all day and you get the idea. This weight can impact on your neck, upper spine, lower back and shoulders. The most common posture issues are curvature of the spine, hunched shoulders and back pain. Besides potentially giving you physical pain, bad posture can affect the way your bra fits you (even a correctly sized bra) and consequently, how you feel about your shape.

When the Lingerie Addict tried on a pair of weighted 34HH breasts she was amazed how heavy they were. Photo: taken by Darlene at Hourglassy

The Emotional Causes of Bad Posture
The most common posture issue for busty women is hunched shoulders and this is the direct result of physically hiding your breasts. You see it all the time; huddles of teenage girls with rounded shoulders and folded arms. Of course it's an awkward time being a busty teenager but if no-one bolsters your confidence and teaches you to be proud of your body then the shoulder-hunched-arm-cross can plight your life forever.

 

Every day I see adult women who are visibly ill-at-ease with their breasts. They stand and walk in such a way that says 'don't look at me, I'm ashamed of my bust.' I want to run up and hug these women, whisk them off for a cup of tea and a bra fitting. Is it worth risking your health and happiness for the sake of worrying about what other people think about your bust? The small-minded idiots who would judge you for your bra size aren't in physical pain because of their ignorance, why on earth should you be? 

Shoulders
If you have rounded shoulders then your straps can't lie flat against your chest causing your bra to stand away from your body. This can cause your breasts to bounce up and down in their cups as the strap can't keep them locked down. I see lots of women default to hunched shoulders when they try on bras. When I realign their posture they can see the difference in fit instantaneously.

It can be incredibly hard to re-train your mind as well as your body, but it is possible. You should try to roll your shoulders back in small rotations every day. A little tip I like is to put a red sticker on your computer (one of the culprits for our declining posture) then every time you become aware of the sticker relax your shoulders, and make 10 small, slow backward rotations (make sure not to stretch you neck back, keep your chin down). Over time you can improve your overall posture by moving your shoulders farther back.

Back and Neck
Your head should be aligned over the thickest part of your spine so that the weight is distributed evenly down your spine. When your boobs pull your whole body forward your head can move farther forward causing the upper part of your spine to work extra hard as it tries to pull your head back into place. This strain on your upper back causes curvature of your upper spine which affects your height as well as disrupting the blood-flow and nerve message around your upper body.

Physically pulling your head in (tuck your chin in and down as you do so to ensure you don't strain your neck) will align your head and spine. You need to wear a correctly fitting bra (by this I mean a snug band!!) so that the weight of your breasts is transferred from your neck and upper back to your mid and lower back which is much stronger. Click here for some posture improving exercises.

Wear the Right Bra
It can never be said enough, wearing correctly fitting bras is so important for your physical and emotional health. In case you don't know if your bra fits, here are the 5 tell tale signs:

1) All of your breast tissue should sit inside your cups (this includes the breast tissue at the side under your armpit) without any gaping.

2) You should be able to get just two fingers under your band. If your band is too loose your bra is completely redundant and probably doing you more harm than good.

3) The centre part of your bra (the gore) should lie flat against your body.

4) Your straps should NOT dig into your shoulders.

5) Your band should be level with the ground at the front AND at the back of your body.

The way you feel about your bust (and your figure in general) is absolutely apparent in your posture. If you think that you should be ashamed of your figure, then you will stand that way. If you feel proud to be busty and healthy then your stance reflects it. Feeling better in your body and your bra starts in your head so I highly recommend reading this post to start piecing together what's holding you back from your embracing your shape and standing with shoulders back xx

Are Women Taught to Criticize Other Women?

The Internet can be a fabulous place for women to find other like-minded and like-shaped women with whom they can share their thoughts and experiences. It can also be a place where women tear each other to shreds because of their weight/shape/style etc. This woman-to-woman criticism is nothing new but that doesn't mean it's something we should tolerate.

The Lingerie Addict Has Implemented a Body Snark Free Policy that encourages people to be constructive not destructive in their comments.

Lots of my fellow lingerie bloggers have experienced someone leaving catty, unkind or downright hurtful comments about another woman's shape/style/weight. Many, like me, operate a zero tolerance policy where if you make a vile comment about someone else, you're banned. I don't see this as censorship, I see it as good manners (but then again I'm English so it's all about the manners). I think there is a big difference between stating an opinion and being derogatory. For example, a recent debate about breast enhancement garnered the opinion from one reader "breast enlargement would never be right for me" that's quite different from the brainless (and frankly pointless) comment "all women with implants are bimbos" from one massively unhelpful woman.

In context these images are legitimate responses to excessive Photoshop, Pro-Ana sites and over sexualization of large breasts.

Does Social Media Pit Women Against One-Another?
I think there is an inherent flaw in social media that reduces life to black and white statements with little or no context. For example, there was a flurry of images with the slogan "Real Women Have Curves" which was initially a backlash to the disproportionate number of 'heroin-chic' images that were prolific in the late 90s (a look that was compounded for its dangerous implications when Kate Moss neglectfully said "nothing tastes as good as skinny feels"). Very quickly there was a backlash to the 'Real Women' images saying 'All Women Are Real'.

This Vera Wang bridesmaid dress model has been severely photoshopped on the left. I don't consider this a 'Real Woman' this is a 'thinspirational' marketing tactic.

I don't think either of these statements can be taken without context. The Real Women have Curves wasn't originally a stab at thin women it was a response to curvy women being entirely ignored by the media. In recent times it has appeared again in response to the very unnaturally over-Photoshopped women we are exposed to in magazines. You don't get either of these contexts when you reduce the sentiment to one line. Women become isolated images or statements without complexity and context. It's up to the viewer to apply some commonsense and balance, something not everyone is capable of evidently so you end up with people who think it's perfectly OK to judge and slam someone based on their appearance.

This is as close as Social Media gets to dividing men!

I find it really interesting that we don't see endless montages full of muscle-bound men reading "Real Men Have Muscles" followed by another wave of montages full of skinny guys that say "All Men Are Real". It makes you wonder whether there's a divide and conquer attitude that keeps women in a permanent state of insecurity, chasing an impossible perfection.

Women are regularly pitted against each other in the media, almost for sport. Just think about 'The Real Housewives of...' series and you know what I mean. We aren't exposed to a whole lot of women supporting women regardless of their shape and size but we regularly see women trying to outdo each other in beauty or getting the man or winning the argument. If we're too busy slagging off someone else about their shape then we won't rise up and demand that the media portrays us with more dignity and diversity.

As busty women we are all too familiar with people stereotyping us based on the size of our breasts but we have a choice; either we can allow ourselves to be defined and feel bad about our bodies based on the ignorant and insecure comments of others, or we can choose to define ourselves and pity the people who have nothing better to do. xx

12 MORE Must-Read Boobilicious Blogs

We had a fantastic response to our original 12 Must-Read Boobilicious Blogs post. It's so exciting to see that people want to know more about their bra size and options as well as breast health and fashion for busty women. In the last six months since the original 12 post there have been even more new blogs talking about the quest for great bra fit and fashion. 

http://missunderpinnings.com/
This is one of my new favourites written by a North American blogger (we need more of these please!) On the search for small back, larger cup bras as well as the fashion to flatter her shape, this blog is easy to read, uplifting (in more ways than one) and gives you some good ideas.

http://boosaurusbras.blogspot.ca/
This blog only came on my radar earlier this year and has already made a big impact. Christine, the author, is passionate about good bra fit, easy to relate to and a bit of a geek - which I love!! I highly recommend checking out her blog.

http://curvywordy.blogspot.ca/
A new-ish UK blogger, Curvy Wordy has a great writing style and covers a lot more than just the bras. She's eloquent about her struggles without being a Moaning Minnie (sorry, but some bloggers just vent and that gets dull fast - Curvy Wordy is definitely not that!) This blog is always chock-full of good pics too!

http://thelingerieaddict.com/
Considered by many to be the Godmother of Lingerie, The Lingerie Addict is a mecca of lingerie knowledge and passion. Headed by Treacle, the original addict, this blog has information for buyers, sellers and designers alike. A must-have in your lingerie list.

http://voluptuouslythin.wordpress.com/
This blog is almost brand-spanking new but I have to include it because it shows such promise and made me super excited that young American women are getting involved in the bra conversation. Izzy is just 17 and yet she already knows that she's been short changed in the bra department. As a 32HH she wants to spread the word to other young women and improve bra knowledge in the US - HALLELUIAH!!!!!

http://cleavagechronicles.blogspot.ca/
This is the blog for Presenza, the brand behind a line of bust-friendly wrap blouses. The brainchild of Jill Homiak this blog has fashion and style tips for busty women of all proportions.

https://swimwearandlingerie.wordpress.com/
Written by the lovely Maggie (here in Canada no less!) you are always guaranteed to learn, giggle and empathize when reading her blog. Maggie is also a tireless supporter of lingerie bloggers, retweeting them whenever humanly possible.

http://busts4justice.com/
Busts 4 Justice is the home of one of my bra heroines, Beckie, who single-handedly brought Marks and Spencer's to their knees on national TV and admit that big busts need to be treated more fairly. She is a fantastic advocate for good bra advice, sizing and offerings. I was lucky to be interviewed by Beckie last year about my mission for Butterfly Collection and large breasted Canadians! In my head she wears a cape all the time!

http://hourglassy.com/
Hourglassy is the blog for Campbell and Kate, designers and makers of classic white button-down shirts for larger breasted women. Darlene is a passionate writer who understands the life and wants of a busty woman. Her journey as both business owner and busty clothing magician is absolutely worth the read.

http://kel-kitty.blogspot.ca/
Three things to know about this lady - She has fantastic style, amazing hair and a killer personality - if that doesn't make you want to read her blog then you're like stone! A UK blogger, this young and vibrant blogger has heaps of fashion picks for busty women and lots of knowledge about what constitutes good fit. Check her out!

http://bybabysrules.com

They say a good blog is defined by a unique voice and I think an ex-military, bra loving, dog owner counts as a unique voice! You'll find small band and big cup reviews as well as general bra questions and a passion for great fit!
http://guilty-pleasures.org/
Guilty pleasure is a compendium of great lingerie articles and blogs from the unique and lovely Miss Tique as well as designers and other lingerie experts. Whether you're looking for some sports bras advice or reviews of the most exquisite luxury French designers, Guilty Pleasures will have something for you.

Well that's my 12 extra blogs for you - I hope you see some faves and some new ones in there. Let me know if I've missed your favourite xx