How to Change the Lingerie Industry

There are undoubtedly bra styles missing across every size and shape range. I've written about the full bust bras I wish were available and there are lots of people who need sizes and styles not readily available. I recently saw an online petition asking full bust brands like Panache and Bravissimo to manufacture 24 and 26 band sizes. Small band sizes are desperately needed for so many people, especially young girls who need bra support from an early age.

Unfortunately, petitioning manufactures for change is not going to bring about lasting and effective change. Why? Because manufacturers rely on retailers to buy sizes that they make and retailers will only buy sizes if their customers spend money on those sizes and consumers can only demand those sizes when they're educated about bra fit. This is a vicious cycle that can only be tackled with education and consumer dollars.

If anyone measures over your boobs like this then run for the hills, they have no idea what they're doing.

Five years ago when I started writing about bra fit the majority of retailers were still trotting out the +4 method of bra fitting which doesn't work for most women. Since then there has definitely been a shift in more retailers educating themselves about the availability of 28-32 band sizes and cup volumes over a DD. But (and it's a big but) there are still thousands of stores in North America that don't carry bands below a 34 or 32 band and don't carry cup volumes over a DD cup. These stores will still fit women into bras that basically don't fit them. These stores will NEVER buy a 24 or 26 band to sell in their store until a shift happens in their customer demand which prompts them to get better educated about bra fit and sizes. I know it's backwards that the 'professionals' need to be incentivized to be better, but that's the reality.

I would hazard a guess that most women in North America don't know that they should be wearing a band size close to their ribcage measurement or that cup letters over a DD exist and would give them a better fit. Butterfly Collection has been part of the wave of bra educators dedicated to bringing bra size liberation and education to women in North America along with groups like Reddit's abrathatfits, online services like Bratabase and bloggers like Sweet Nothings. This movement is really only in its infancy compared to decades of unchallenged bra fitting techniques that have left generations of women in the wrong fit. Educating consumers about the bra fit they need and deserve is the first step in bringing about the change in demand that uneducated bra retailers need in order to change their buying habits.

If a store's customers never know that they need a wider range of sizes then they'll never ask for them, the store will never order them and the manufacturer will never be able to produce them.

In order to bring about real change in the lingerie industry I think we need to apply more pressure to the retailers than to the manufacturers. If you are an educated bra consumer who wants change then speak to the retailers you deal with and tell them about the size you need. Then tell your friends to demand better service from their bra retailers if they're being given poor service (telltale signs of bad retailers can be found here). We have to stop spending money on bras that don't fit us in order to prompt retailer awareness and urgency.

Change is definitely possible but I think we have to affect that change at a more grassroots level of the bra industry. The consumer has ultimate power once they know what bras are best for them. When I first started blogging a large and well established retailers got in touch with me to say that I should stop giving out free fitting advice because only bra fitters should have that knowledge. I wholeheartedly disagreed because keeping consumers in the dark about their own bra fit is what allows lazy retailers to get away with selling a fraction of bra sizes. Let's not allow that to continue for another generation. xx

Bras Missing from the Full Bust Market

Almost every week I have to tell someone that the bra they need simply doesn't exist. It's awful to have to tell someone that but the reality is that the full bust market does not yet have a full compliment of styles compared to the A-D mainstream sizes. Here are some of the bras that are missing from the full bust market.

Plunge Bras Over an H Cup
The versatility of a plunge bra is something a lot of H+ cup women would like but that's not the key reason I'd love to see an H+ cup plunge bra. Lots of my clients have a protruding or concave breastbone that makes medium to tall gores difficult to wear. H+ cup bras tend to have quite tall gores and this makes sense because you're trying to support a 10 inch circumference difference between the ribcage and the fullest part of the bust so you want good scaffolding! However, if that gore creates too much pressure on a protruding sternum or can't take to a concave one then the fit is lost.

There is the germination of H+ plunge bras appearing in Freya's Deco Vibe GG cups and Panache's new fashion style Fontaine. However, there is enormous scope for more styles that offer support with strong seaming and fabrics while offering the flexibility of a lower gore.

A Variety of Wire Lengths
Full bust manufacturers tend to get stuck in a wire length rut. It makes sense from a manufacturing point of view because it's expensive to change production settings for the wire length, however, brands are missing out on a ready and willing audience. Panache is a prime example of a brand that could quickly rack up more clients if it offered a variety of wire lengths. So many of our clients love the designs, Cleo in particular, but the wires are just too long for their breast height or torso length. They're ready and willing to part with their dollars but can't because Panache doesn't offer enough wire lengths.

One of the most overlooked sectors of our clientele is the short busty woman. She's generally under 5ft 3" with a 32H+ bust and most of the bras available in her size come with incredibly long wires. Just knocking off an inch or so from those wire lengths or offering a short wires version would result in a swathe of new customers.

Strapless Bras Over an H Cup
Again it would be nice to have more strapless options over an H cup but currently there is only Curvy Kate's Luxe bra widely available and if Curvy Kate's wire width doesn't work for you then you don't really have anywhere else to look.

More Gore Width Options
Large breasts come in many shapes and sizes and sit in a variety of different positions on the body. If your breasts sit far apart then you need a bra with a wide gore. If they sit close together then you need a narrow gore. Currently the narrowest gore options also live on bras with long wires so if you have a narrow bust and high breast root it's tricky to find a fit. More gore width options within a brand would cast their customer net that little bit wider.

If you have a full bust bra that you simply cannot find or a fit feature that seems to be completely missing then please share it in the comments. xx

Bra Fact and Bra Fiction Quiz

In five years of talking about bras I've had to debunk my fair share of bra myths. There is a lot of great bra information out there but there is also a lot of bra nonsense that is keeping hundreds of thousands of women from their best fit. How many of these bra 'facts' are actually rubbish and which are the real deal? (I'll post the answers in the comments in a couple of days!) xx

1) Your bra band should be parallel with the ground

2) It's normal to get some back fat with a well-fitting bra

3) After you measure round your ribcage you should add 4 inches to find your band size

4) Not all bras in your size will fit you

5) Straps falling off your shoulders is a normal part of wearing bras

6) You should be able to lift the band away from your body so you can see the bottom of your breasts

7) The direction of the seams on a cup changes the shape of the look of your bust

8) The gore should lie flat against your body between your boobs

9) If your bra leaves red marks on your body it's the wrong size

10) Wearing a bra at night stops your boobs sagging

There are many, many more but if you can sort the fact from the fiction in this list then you've got a great handle on your bra fit! xx

Transitioning Back from Nursing to Regular Bras

In the early weeks and months of breastfeeding your nursing bra clips are up and down like a jack-in-a-box. As the baby starts to eat solids the prospect of getting back into regular bras becomes a possibility. Evelynne is now 14 months old and eating solids like a boxer in training. She still finds time to fit in a few breastfeeds in the day but not enough to warrant being in a nursing bra all day. Now that I don't need to be so available to her I have started transitioning back into regular bras and discovered that's harder than I thought.

Body Shock Post Nursing
When Evelynne was about 8 months I really missed regular bras. I had great nursing bras but the shape they all give you is pretty similar and you don't get the same lift as you do with a wired bra. When I realized I could start wearing wired bras again I was really excited to get back into my Panache Jasmine and Cleo Lucy bras because they're my favourite shapes. Unfortunately this wasn't to be.

My size had barely changed from my pre-pregnancy size. I was a 32GG before Evelynne and I was now a 34GG, so up just one band size and one cup volume. I tried a 34GG in Lucy and it was too much of a shock to my system to have such a long wire and rigid support again after 12 months of wire-free, relaxed support.  This body shock happens a lot for women who have spent their whole lives in the wrong bra. They know they are uncomfortable and their straps hurt in the wrong bra but once they put on a band that is actually supportive it's too different from the loose fit they're used to and it can put off a lot of people from persevering with a better fit. I knew that the shock meant I needed to take smaller steps back into wired bras.

Related Article: What to expect when you start wearing the right size bra

Baby Steps Back into Wired Bras
I had to start experimenting with new styles to help me find my way back to wired bras. I have never been a big fan of smooth cup bras because I don't like the shape they give me as much as a seamed cup shape, but I discovered that soft smooth cups (so no rigid molded cups) were very comfortable, especially as I am still nursing so still a little sensitive.  I also found that even though I can wear pretty long wires I was more comfortable in a shorter wire. A shorter wire meant less pressure around my torso (and less support in my case) but it proved to be a good middle ground between no wire and long wires.

Short wired, smooth cups are bras that I've never regularly worn but they have given me back more lift, a different shape from nursing bras and the body confidence to start wearing a firmer band again.

Here are the bras that are rehabilitating me back into wired bras!

Verailles by Lunaire

Short wires, scooped straps and smooth cups made Versailles a great post nursing bra.

This bra is pretty firm in the band so I tried a 36G (the equivalent cup volume of a 34GG) and was very pleasantly surprised at the comfort and support. I particularly like that the straps scoop in on the shoulders so this bra is invisible under a tank top. Shop Here

Basic Beauty by Wacoal

Smooth cups, lots of support and scooped straps were my favourite post-nursing features on Basic Beauty

The cups are made of a double lined material which adds support without irritation your nipples. The cups come up pretty high but this gives a fantastic support. Again the straps scoop in on the shoulders on this one so it's been useful in the summer with strapless tops. Shop Here

Etta by Elomi

I love the short gore on Etta and the seams hit me in the right place post-nursing

I needed something with a shorter gore than Versailles and Basic Beauty so I tried Etta and it was ideal. The wires are probably a little short on me (I have a tall bust) but the shape and comfort made up for that. The placement of the seams didn't irritate me and it's so nice to be back in a seamed, wired bra. Shop Here

I plan to get back into Jasmine and Lucy eventually and my transition bras are helping me get there. Having and nursing a baby is such a huge change for your body that I guess it's no surprise that your body needs time to transition back into pre-baby bras. xx

How To Survive a Bra Shopping Trip to the Mall

A couple of weeks ago I shared an article from Buzzfeed about one woman's trip to the mall to find a bra. She visited 6 stores and was given 8 different sizes to try on. The article is a brilliant example of how confusing and misleading bra shopping can be. I felt so sorry for Kristin as she was put in size after size without being offered any explanation as to why some styles fit her better than others. Kristin has a tall shallow bust and needs a fitter who can explain which features to look for in a bra (besides size) to get a great fit.

Naturally I think online bra shopping is a great option (especially with us!) but I also want to arm you with the survival skills you need for a bra shopping trip to the mall. You need to be prepared because in some stores you're going to find poor fit advice and a sales hungry, rather than fit focused, sales person.

If your fitter measures over the top of your breasts then you know it's a bad fitting!

There are a few things you should expect from a fitting:

1. You should expect to have a friendly, respectful and courteous fitter who listens to you.
2. Some fitters will not use a tape measure and as long as you end up liking the bra and fit then that's OK but the very act of not using a tape measure does not make a fitter right.
3. If your fitter does use a tape measure then she should stand behind you and take your measurements with your bra on but your top off. If you are anxious about taking off your top then make sure you wear a fine material (like a t-shirt) so that your measurements aren't distorted by a heavy fabric.
4. Your fitter should measure around your ribcage (where your band sits) and around the fullest part of your bust over the nipples. If your fitter measures over the top of your breasts, under your armpits, then leave the fitting because they don't know what they're doing.

Survival Skills
You can learn a lot from a good bra fitter but it's also good to be on your guard ready to spot a bad fitter. After putting you in a bra the fitter should adjust your straps for you and ensure your breasts are settled correctly in the cups by pulling slightly on the tops of the cups and possibly asking you to move your breasts. Once this is done a good fitter will ask you how the bra feels. A good fitter knows that a bra has to feel right to the client.

The empty cup at the bottom of Kristin's cups is caused by the wires being too long for her breast height

There are lots of nuances to bra fit but there are 3 really obvious fit signs you can learn to make sure you're not being cornered into a bra that's not right for you:

1. The band should feel secure and not easily pulled away from the body more than an inch. It can feel snug, that's natural for a new bra, but it shouldn't be painful.
2. The cups should not wrinkle, gape or have breast tissue spilling out of the front, sides or worst of all there should not be breast tissue below the band.
3. If you can see flat empty cup underneath your breasts (like the image above from the Buzzfeed article) but the cups look to fit nicely at the top, then the wires of the bra are too long and this style will not work for you. Ask your fitter for styles with shorter wires.

Don't Be Afraid To Give Feedback
Bras and bra fitting can be intimidating and it's easy to assume that your bra fitter knows best but they can only do their best if you give them honest feedback so tell your fitter what you think of the fit. You can learn more about your fit from a great fitter but ultimately you need to be happy and comfortable in the fit so your opinion really matters! xx

I Wish I Could Stop These 3 Bra Worries

There are 3 big bra fit worries that cause women to make bad bra fit choices. I wish I could stop the worry because a lot of the time it stems from how we think other people see us which shouldn't be the reason we make choices. Hopefully one day most women won't worry about the size, shape or sheer presence of their breasts. Until then I want to share why trying to 'cover up' your breast worries with these 3 bad fit choices doesn't help you at all.

1) Wearing a loose bra band because you're worried about back fat and think a loose band makes it less noticeable.

I'm afraid the loose band only rides up your back and takes any excess skin and fat with it.

In a well-fitting bra the excess fat bulges around the back of your armpit where you can see it. In a loose band the fat either gets pulled up between your shoulder blades or pushed down towards the middle of your back where you can't necessarily see it. The big difference is that now the bra is also putting a huge strain on the nerves and muscles in your neck which can cause trapped nerves, headaches and pain.

Related Article: Bra Fit and Back Fat

Your health and comfort are so much better in a well-fitting bra. I know I'm not going to convince everyone that the fat you can see just doesn't matter (it doesn't!) so if it really bothers you you can smooth it out with deep band or shapewear.

The fat is there no matter what band you wear but not wearing a supportive bra because you're worried about back fat is ultimately a disservice to your physical and mental well-being.

2) Wearing cups and/or a band that's too big so that your boobs don't look as big.

Boobs size is all relative. Your breasts may seem huge to you but are average size, even small, to someone else. Your breasts may seem huge to you because of the stereotypes someone else's ignorance has drummed into you. Your breasts may be huge... AND THAT'S OK!

One thing is for sure, when you wear a bra that's too big in the band and/or cups then your breasts will look larger than they are. This is because the breast tissue spreads wide across your body so appear to take up more surface area. By getting your breasts into a smaller, narrower wire your breasts won't look as big so it's worth getting your size checked with a free bra size consultation.

Image has been airbrushed around the nipple at the model's request

3) Wearing smooth cup bras because you worry that someone will see the seams of your bra through your clothing.

This is something I've written about a lot because seam fear, especially in North America, is keeping women from the support they need. Smooth bras don't work for everyone because some breast shapes and weights need the support and shaping of seams to get the healthiest and most comfortable fit.

If you worry about seams then I urge you to read these two articles and give a seamed bra another chance!

Sorry to Break it to You but People Know You're Wearing a Bra
Smooth Cup Bras: Fit, Health and Body Shame

I'd love everyone to have a happy and comfortable relationship with their bras. Working through your bra worries is an important part of better, happier bra fit xx

How Long Does it Take to Move Migrated Breast Tissue?

One of the most common side effects of wearing the wrong bra size (or style) for a long period of time is migrated breast tissue. Migrated breast tissue is fatty breast tissue that gets displaced from the main mass of fatty breast tissue into the area around your armpit. This is usually caused by the edge of a cup that is too small or positioned in the wrong place due to a band that rides up and tilts the cups forward. The edge of a cup that's in the wrong place bisects the breast tissue forcing some fatty tissue outside the cup into your armpit.

You can move this tissue back into your cup by getting good bra fit which essentially stops the pressure that bisects your breast tissue. The time it takes to move tissue back into your cups depends on a few things:

1. How much tissue has been displaced
2. How long the tissue has been displaced
3. The density of the breast tissue

1. It's not uncommon for a cup size or more of tissue to be displaced. I have helped a lot of Butterfly Collection clients move their migrated breast tissue back into their cups and on average a cup of displaced tissue takes 6-12 months to migrate back into the cup.

2. If your breast tissue has been displaced for 15+ years it can take longer for the tissue to be repositioned back into the cup. The skin that bisects the main breast tissue mass and the displaced tissue can become toughened from the daily pressure of an ill fitting bra. In a well-fitting bra the pressure is relieved and over time the bisect tissue will soften and the tissue migration back into the cup can begin. My clients with 15+ years of migrated tissue find that it takes about 18 months to migrate tissue back into the cups.

3. In my experience dense breast tissue migrates back into the cup faster than soft breast tissue. I have tried to find the medical reason for this but as of yet I'm still not 100% sure why. I'm assuming that the connective tissue between the fat cells are closer together so as one cell is moved back into the cup the adjoining cells follow on quickly. As the fat cells in soft breast tissue are farther apart this may explain why migrating soft breast tissue back into the cups takes a little longer.

If you are attempting to migrate tissue back into your cups then remember to be prepared for an increase in cup volume or a change in breast shape. It's probably a good idea to invest in just two or three well-fitting bras while you migrate your breast tissue and wait to assess any size or shape change before going to town on an array of lovely well-fitting bras! xx

Smooth Cup Bras: Fit, Health and Body Shame

Whether you call them smooth cup bras, t-shirt bras or molded bras the result is the same; a smooth, seamless look under clothing. This look can be really sleek and stylish but the smooth bra can also be a curse. In today's special we're going to look at the different kinds of smooth cup bra, whether they're right for you, and how smooth cups are part of the body shame problem. 

Deco Vibe (left) is a fixed smooth cup. Versailles (right) is a soft smooth cup.

Fixed or Soft
The most prolific smooth cup bra is a fixed molded bra, one that keeps its shape even when it's not on your body. There is also a soft smooth cup option. The cups are still smooth but the material isn't rigid like a fixed cup. Fixed cup smooth bras tend to have a little padding to them because the material has to be thick enough to hold its shape. Soft smooth cup bras tend to be made of lighter material. There's also a halfway option which is the spacer bra. Spacer bra cups are less rigid than a fixed cup but not as lightweight as a soft smooth cup.

Spacer bras, like Profile Perfect, are less rigid than fixed cups and breathable

A fixed smooth cup gives a predictable shape, disguises nipples and evens out the appearance of asymmetrical breasts. The downside is that if your breasts don't closely match the pre-fixed shape of the cup you're going to get gaping which can lead to compromised support and chafing. A soft smooth cup can be adapted more easily to accommodate the natural shape of your breasts (by adjusting the straps) but can't disguise nipples as easily because the fabric is thinner.

Support and Health
A well-fitting smooth bra can give you great support but for a lot of women smooth cup support isn't enough and that's because smooth cup bras don't have seams. Seams are like boob scaffolding. In a smooth cup your breast tissue floods the cup shape, which is usually round and wide or round and plunged. In a seamed bra the seams direct the breast tissue up, forward or wide depending on the angle of the seams. Very heavy breasts need excellent support to lift the tissue up and away from the body (this is good for your health as it stops heat and sweat getting trapped between your breasts and body which can cause rashes and irritations).

This is why seamless bras aren't generally available over a 36GG, because breast volumes over this simply couldn't be supported by a seamless bra.

Full bust bra seams not only help with upward lift of your bust but they also reinforce the strength of the cup which reduces bounce which in turn reduces the impact stress across your whole bra. This lessens the strain on your back and neck.  If you have heavy breasts then look for a soft smooth cup bra with double lined cups because the additional material will provide some of the cup reinforcement that reduces stress. Basic Beauty from Wacoal is a very supportive double-layered t-shirt bra.

Women with shallow breasts or hollowing at the armpit will almost certainly be faced with empty cup space in a smooth cup bra, especially a fixed smooth cup. Sometimes you can come down a cup size to offset the gaping but this doesn't always work. For example, Deco by Freya, which is their signature style, is pretty tall in the cups so no matter how much you come down in volume the cups still gape on a shallow bust because the cups always come up higher than your breast tissue. If you have shallow breasts then you're best option is to go with a soft smooth cup bra option from brands like Fantasie (Echo Lace) or Parfait (Jeanie) that make shorter cups.

Body Shaming
If bras were fruit then the smooth cup bra is like strawberries. So good to look at, easy to eat and gives thousands of people allergic reactions! But imagine if those people who are allergic to strawberries were made to feel that they had to eat strawberries in order to fit in because strawberries are the only acceptable fruit in North America? Smooth bras are not right for everyone but lots of women wear them because they feel that their breasts would be 'too obvious' or 'inappropriate' in anything other than a smooth bra. This is when smooth bras become a real problem.

Because of the high-visibility of brands like Victoria's Secret and La Senza who trade almost exclusively in smooth cup bras, it has become default that breasts should be rounded, smooth, nipple free and 'modest'. The idea that seams bring attention to your breasts is holding some women prisoner in smooth cup bras.

I have lost count of the number of emails I've had from women who are terrified to wear anything other than a smooth bra for fear of their boobs looking too big or obvious or inappropriate. Thankfully I've also lost count of the number of women we've helped break free from their smooth dependence and embrace different styles.

I'm not saying that you shouldn't wear smooth cup bras but I am saying that you shouldn't wear them to keep other people happy or to conform to what social convention says your breasts should look like. Smooth cup bras should be one arrow in your quiver of bra styles and support. They are one look that you can choose to wear, or choose NOT to wear. xx

Features of Full Support Bras

'Full Support' is often used to describe a bra, but what does this really mean? The way a bra is constructed and the materials it is made of change how much support that particular bra will give you. Bras range in support from light to sports level because we use lingerie for everything from aesthetic boudoir pieces to intense workouts.

If you have a heavy bust then your everyday activities probably need a lot of support. Women in very physically demanding jobs sometimes wear sports bras for work but that's not for everyone. You can get a lot of support from everyday bras if you know what to look for in a Full Support Bra.

There are some common features in Full Support Bras:

1: Lois by Fantasie 2: Profile Perfect by Fayreform 3: Tango by Panache 4: Profile Perfect by Fayreform 5: Basic Beauty by Wacoal

1) Cups that go all the way around your breasts [image: Lois by Fantasie]. Full cups that encircle your breasts ensure there is a downward force that keeps your breast tissue in place as you move. A bra that exposes the upper part of your bust is versatile for your wardrobe but won't give you the same level of support as full cups.

2) Elasticated edging on the cups. [image: Profile Perfect by Fayreform] Full cups that have elasticated edges enhance your support level. The elastic gives you a comfortable fit but it also adds a layer of resistance that increases support.

3) Wide straps. [image: Tango by Panache] Full support is all about minimizing bounce and impact when you move about. Wide straps absorb more impact so that you stay comfortable during your busy days. Lots of wide straps also have a layer of foam cushioning at the shoulder for comfort and support.

4) Deep bands: the more hooks the better. [image: Profile Perfect by Fayreform] The taller your band is the more impact it will absorb. A bra with a deep band can be the most important feature for a really heavy bust.

5) Materials that don't stretch easily. [image: Basic Beauty by Wacoal] A cup that's made of a non-stretchy material will give you more support because the cup itself resists bounce.  Some bras are made of soft stretchier material but have a double layer of that material to give you the benefit of a stretchy fabric's comfort and fit with the support of the thickness.

Choosing bras with two or more of these features will give you a full support fit so you can get on with your busy days in comfort. xx

Bras For Narrow Shoulders

Women of every size and shape can have large breasts and if you're someone with narrow or sloping shoulders then bras can be a strap slipping headache. Lots of bras have straps that are wide apart partly because of style and partly because not every manufacturer has figured out that just because someone has a large cup volume doesn't mean they're taller and wider than someone with a smaller cup volume. It can be so frustrating to find a cup shape and size that works for you only to have the straps slipping off your shoulders every 5 minutes.

A quick note about slipping straps. The most common cause of straps slipping is your band being too big. When your band is too big it can ride up your back and this slackens the tension of your straps and they gradually slip off your shoulders. If you know that your band and cup sizes are right and your straps keep slipping then it's most likely that you need a style with straps set closer together.

There are some full bust bras that are ideal for narrow and sloping shoulders. Here are some of our favourites:

Eva by Elomi  (34-40 E-JJ) - The outside panel of this bra has been extended so that it swoops up past the armpit and the straps sit about half an inch closer in on the shoulder than a regular strap position.

Etta by Elomi (34-40 E-JJ)- Etta is built on the same short torso friendly frame as Eva (by the way Eva has just been inexplicably renamed Yolande by Elomi - just to confuse everyone!). Not only do the straps sit closer in on the shoulders there's also a J hook in the back so that you can wear the straps as a racer back for the ultimate zero slipping straps!

Basic Beauty by Wacoal (32-38 E-GG)- This smooth cup bra has Wacoal's V back straps which means the straps are angled in a V shape at the back where they join the band. These straps sit about 1.5 inches closer in on the shoulder than a regular strap position and they really don't move no matter what you're doing. This style is very popular with our clients who have physically demanding jobs.

Versailles by Lunaire (32-38 E-G) - Another smooth cup bra, the cups are a teardrop shape which means the straps are positioned at the top of the cups rather than to the outside edges. The straps sit about an inch closer in than an average strap position.

Deco Vibe (28-38 E-GG) - This is the newest Deco basic by Freya and it comes as standard with a J hook in the back so that you can make your straps immovable. Without the J hook the straps are in a pretty standard position but I think it's great that more and more styles are becoming available with the J hook for those people who really need to adapt the straps.

Not every size is covered in these suggestions but there is an accessory that can stop straps slipping on any bra. A strap holder is a piece of elastic that you loop over your straps and it keeps them in place. What I like about the strap holder is that it stretches as you move so it's flexible. It's not a solution that everyone wants so as we get more close set straps styles for small bands in the H+ ranges we'll let you know xx

Why Bras Slip Down

Sometimes a client asks me why her bra slips down her body during the day. She puts it on in the morning so that the wires are flush with the root of her breast but it still manages to wiggle its way down her body. There are 3 main causes for bras that slip down the body:

Wire Shape
If you have a wide breast root and you're wearing a bra that has narrow cups (like Gem in the picture above) then it's like trying to keep a tennis ball in an egg cup. You might be able to squeeze the tennis ball into the egg cup but the pressure is going to build and the tennis ball will pop up.

Your wide breast roots force their way out of the narrow wire shapes and your bra slips down. To resolve this problem look for bras with a wide wire - Panache is particularly good for wide wires.

For more information on breast root shapes click here.

Torso Shape
I've written a lot about torso shape because for some women this is the biggest shape factor that affects their bra fit. If you have a flared torso that is wider at the top of your band than it is at the bottom then you can often find that your bras slip down.

Lots of my clients with flared ribcages wear their bands on the loosest hook at the top of their band and the tightest hooks at the bottom to offset the size difference. There's no easy fit fix for a significantly flared torso but bra extenders can help you create a wide fit at the top of your band and a tight fit at the bottom.

For more information on how torso shape affects bra fit click here.

Cup Size
Similar to the tennis ball in an egg cup scenario, cups that are too small for you cause a pressure build up and eventually your breast tissue wiggles out of the cups and forces the bra down. Your bra wire should go all the way around the outside edge of your breasts without spilling over the front, sides, armpits or beneath the band.

Have you experienced your bra slipping down your body? Was there a reason not mentioned here, we'd love to read your experience xx

Sternum Shape and Bra Fit

Cora over at The Lingerie Addict asked me why the gores tack on her 34C bras but only tack at the top but not the bottom on her 32Ds and don't tack at all on her 30DD/E bras. This sounds counter-intuitive to most fit information because we learn that when your band is too big the gore stands away from your breast bone so why would Cora's gores tack in big bands but not smaller band sister sizes? The answer lies in ribcage and sternum shape.

Band Size and Ribcage Shape
Let's start with the band. When we measure around our ribcage (the parallel line directly below your breast root) it tells us the circumference of only part of our ribcage. Bra bands are several inches deep and wrap around a greater depth than the single ribcage measurement we can take with a measuring tape. I want to make it clear that the underbust measurement is well worth taking because it's a great starting point but for lots of women it needs to be taken in conjunction with other bra fit factors.

If you have a broad back or a flared ribcage (it's worth reading my article on torso shape and bra fit) then your band has to stretch around large and small circumferences simultaneously. The measuring tape measurement probably tells you the smallest circumference that your bra band will stretch around which is why someone like Cora can measure a 30 around but find her best fit in a 34 band because her ribcage might flare out into a broader back or acute angle which is better suited to a larger band.

Cora, The Lingerie Addict, in a shoot by Old School Pinups wearing Kiss Me Deadly Sirena Corset

In a 30 band Cora's bra is staining over a wider part of her ribcage which lifts the gore away from her sternum at the front. In a 32 band the strain is less so the gore is tilted and fits either at the top and not the bottom of vice versa. In a 34 band the strain is relieved and the gore can sit flush against the sternum. Women with flared ribcages sometimes find that they get some hollow space just below their gore where they can fit several fingers underneath their gore - the is quite normal and in general doesn't detrimentally affect fit.

Breast Bone Shape
The other fit factor to consider when a larger band fits you better than a smaller one is the angle and shape of your breast bone. When you measure around your ribcage it cannot take into account the shape of your breast bone (sternum). When your sternum is acutely angled or protruding you often find that you need either a very short gore than sits below your sternum or you need a larger band to accommodate the shape of the breast bone. You may find that your breast bone hollows where your gore is meant to tack, or that it protrudes more at the top than the bottom. This shaping of your sternum affects which band size and gore height will work best for you.

The band number and cup letters are far less important than finding a fit that feels right to you so don't worry if you measure a 28GG but find that a 30G or 32FF fits you better, it could very well be that other aspects of your torso are affecting your fit. xx

Bra Fit Tips for Women with Active Jobs

I'm so thrilled to have this guest post by The Lingerie Detective's Avigayil. Being busty and having a very physically demanding job can be made more comfortable with some bra know-how and Avigayil has fantastic experience and tips on staying comfortable and supported at work.

"Lingerie style and fit is important when your job is physically demanding. I was an in-home caregiver for a wheelchair bound client for seven years. In my daily job I performed a standing transfer wherein I supported the full weight of my client to move her in and out of bed, on and off the toilet, and in and out of the shower. Given my highly active career, I had to find lingerie that was comfortable, supportive, and flexible. Here are a few tips for what kind of lingerie to look for if you also have an active job. 

Panache Sports Bra has wicking material and a J hook to turn the back into a racerback style

Fabric
Look for bras with breathable or moisture-wicking fabrics. Breathable fabrics allow air to flow towards your skin and sweat to flow away from your body. Moisture-wicking fabrics draw the sweat away from your body and cause your skin to dry quicker. If you are prone to heavy sweating or your active job requires you to be in close proximity to people while still performing well, then a moisture-wicking sports fabric would probably be a good choice. Natural fibres like cotton are breathable and can be a good alternative to synthetic if you have sensitive skin. I am also a fan of mesh: even though it is made of synthetic materials, the perforated design allows for a good exchange of air between the world and your skin.

Basic Beauty by Wacoal has a V back strap design to keep your straps firmly in place

Bras

When selecting a bra, look for designs with a t-back, racer back, or J-hook on one of the bra straps that allows you to convert the bra. This back style serves two purposes. First, it redistributes weight that would be on your shoulders and places it closer to your core. Secondly, it moves your straps farther in on your body so there is less of a chance of a strap falling down when you lean over, reach for something, or contort into an interesting position while at work. On the same note, look for bras with straps placed farther in on the front. Even if you do not have narrow or sloping shoulders, active work often means our shoulders are in a variety of different positions. When the bra straps are positioned closer to the core, they move less and require minimal (ideally no) adjustment throughout the day.

Two styles I suggest for an active job are the dependable sports bra and a non-molded cup bra. I think the sports bra is a no-brainer as most sports bras are about containment. They offer great support, reduce breast bounce, and tend to keep larger breasts closer to the chest. The materials used in sports bras either have moisture wicking properties or are breathable. This Panache Sports Bra has a couple other features that make it a great bra for work: the moulded cups offer extra padding for sensitive chests and it is cut lower under the armpits to prevent chaffing. While it is not a dedicated racer back bra, it does have the racer clip for conversion.

Dessous is a mesh range full cup bra that's ideal for shallow on top breasts and narrow or sloping shoulders

Now, just because you have an active job it does not mean you cannot wear pretty bras to work. I recommend trying a full soft cup bra (underwire) with straps that are set in a bit. If you have shallow on top breasts, then I recommend the Dessous line by Claudette. I could probably skydive in my Dessous and my breasts would not escape the cups. The coverage of a full cup along with the underwire offers the support your breast tissue needs. The closer set bra straps will keep you from having to readjust your bra throughout the day. The soft cups are also useful for work where your chest may encounter objects or people on a regular basis. Whereas a molded cup bra keeps your breasts acting as one, a soft cup allows each breast to move independently. Therefore, if I get an elbow/box/etc. squished against my one breast, it will not try to adjust my entire bra or push my breast out of the cup. My one breast will just “go with the flow,” while still encapsulated in the bra, and then settle back down. I found soft cup bras the best match for my work as a personal caregiver.

Underwear
The world of lingerie does not stop at bras so I would be negligent not to mention their common counterpart: underwear. Wear comfortable underwear. If your underwear likes to ride up or give you a wedgie, then leave them in your underwear drawer (or throw them out). While underwear style is going to mainly come down to personal tastes, I found high-rise full coverage bikini style briefs the most comfortable. Again, your moisture-wicking or breathable fabrics are going to be vital. There is nothing like the discomfort of overheating between your legs because the synthetic pair of underwear you purchased for $5 does not breathe. Do not be deceived by the cotton gusset: if there is a layer of fabric on the outside of the cotton gusset that does not breath that means that your crotch is not getting proper air circulation. Try out a pair of 100% cotton underwear or performance underwear. Mesh is also an option for the aforementioned reasons.

No matter what lingerie you choose to wear, fit is always imperative. Always buy underwear in your current size and get bra fittings regularly. Wearing proper fitting underpinnings will make a world of difference to both you and your skin."

Avigayil Morris is a full-time wife and a full-time student about to graduate with a BA in English. A long time deal blogger for Bargainmoose, she has recently started her own lingerie blog called Lingerie Detective as a creative outlet for her overwhelming obsession with underpinnings and as a place to exhibit her ever increasing collection. Her other obsessions include animals, water, nature, food, fashion, and earth friendly living.

I'm Busty And I Know It

Today I'm handing you over to one of our guest bloggers who, like thousands of women, has shallow breasts. Fitting shallow breasts is challenging and as Justina explains, the public perception of this 'type of full bust' can be infuriating.

My measurements are 30” under bust and 39” across the fullest part of my bust, and I usually wear a UK 30FF (sometimes 30G or 32F). Because I am somewhat shallow busted I’ve been called a liar when disclosing my bra size. Ladies let me tell you, I’m full busted and I know it. There’s nothing unreal about my measurements, or yours, just because they don’t “fit” what someone else thinks a full bust should look like.

A friend once laughed in my face in the middle of a mall when I told her my bra size; “You’re smaller than I am, and I’m only a C cup,” she said. When I tried to explain she might have been improperly fitted or her band size might be different, she laughed harder. Reactions like this used to really bother me. The general perceptions about big boob sizes and shapes are way off reality and it's important that you don't listen to the general ignorance about your boobs.

The Curse and Blessing of Shallow, Wide Breasts
I have soft, bottom heavy breasts with slight tissue migration. My shape can be a blessing and a curse. On the upside, I can wear a well fitted plunge bra because my tissue doesn't spill into the center when unsupported. On the downside, if I don’t pull all my tissue forward from the sides I spill out under my arms and my fullness vanishes. This anatomical layout has led to some unfortunate fittings because not every fitter understand the needs of a wide, shallow bust.

When I first began to learn about my true bra size I decided to go shopping. A cheerful department store saleswoman greeted me and I told her the size range I wanted. She eyed me dubiously and told me she needed to fit me first. She took me to a fitting room and asked me to take off my shirt. After observing me she smiled and went to grab what she “knew would fit.” With stilled breath I began to put on the bra she brought me. I went to bend over to adjust myself into place, which is a must for me, when she asked what I was doing. When I told her she said, “Don’t do that. Stand up.” I obliged and looked in the mirror at filled cups and the tissue that spilled out under my arms. I told her I needed a bigger cup size and she laughed. I left the store.

"The best thing we can do is educate ourselves about our bodies and our unique breasts."

Trust Your Knowledge
Sadly most fitters know little to nothing about what true fit looks like, couple that with a shallow projection and it’s difficult for me to be fitted correctly. As I educated myself about breast shapes and bra styles I learned to find stores with the size I thought I needed. If the fitter didn’t fit me correctly I had the confidence to ask for the sizes I wanted not just the sizes they thought I needed. Ladies, only you’ll know what feels and looks right for you so trust your knowledge of your boobs.

Over time I have narrowed down that Freya full-coverage, unmolded, 30FF bras work best for me. I also like Fantasie in that style, although I need a 30G. I’ve learned not to be afraid to try different sizes because even within a single brand there can be a lot of variances.

The best thing we can do is educate ourselves about our bodies and our unique breasts. The more knowledge you have about your body, the more you will love you and be able to care for your curves. That’s a lesson I’ve learned.

Justina Luther is a lifetime author with a passion for people. Whether it’s her current work, a suspense titled Would You Have Believed Me? or her personal experience short story titled GED=OMG, which was published in Beginnings XIV, she puts her heart into every word she writes. Justina believes words can change the world. She is currently an author on the exciting new blog When Readers Write. To read more of her work, visit www.whenreaderswrite.com

3 Unexpected Boob Side Effects of Pregnancy

Once the wonderful news had sunk in that I was pregnant I thought how lucky I was that I had unlimited access to bras to see me through the changes I would experience during pregnancy. At over 8 months pregnant I still didn't have any volume increase, unbelievable! I thought it was a given that my boobs would get bigger and when they didn't I was really surprised. To add to my naivety there were three more changes that I didn't expect:

1) Bras and Breathing
Pregnancy triggered my asthma which has been very manageable, almost dormant, for years. Within weeks of getting pregnant the additional demand on my blood supply meant that my lungs were compromised and I needed to get new medication to get my asthma under control. I was very quickly aware that my band size was bothering me. Pre-pregnancy I wore a very firm band and I expected to be able to stay in the same band size for a few months at least. Within a month I had switched from a 32GG to a 34G and at 3 months I had switched to a 36FF so that I could breathe! I am carrying the baby quite high which exacerbates my breathing so by 4 months I had moved to a wire free bra (Sophie has been a godsend!) to relieve the pressure around my lungs even further.

I was in a wire free bra by 4 months to alleviate the pressure on my lungs. Sophie Nursing.

2) Attack of the Itch!
At three months pregnant it was Christmas and I was having a lovely evening with family when all of a sudden, literally out of the blue, my breasts started itching. Not a little discreet itch but a full on tearing at my boobs itching! I went to take off my bra and I had broken the skin on my chest and caused lots of blood blisters - my poor boobs! This maddening itching lasted for about 8 weeks and I found a couple of things to ease the irritation.

• Moisturize, moisturize, moisturize. My breasts didn't feel particularly dry but applying almond oil morning and night kept the itching at bay. The only drawback of having oiled up boobs is that the oil soaks through your bras (and if you're unlucky through to your clothing). I have an Elomi Eva that is forever oil stained but it was so worth it just to keep the itching at bay.
• No hot showers. Again this is because it dries out the skin so I avoided hot water directly on my breasts for a couple of months.

3) Feeling the Heat
I expected my breasts to feel more tender (although they haven't been particularly sore) but I didn't expect them to feel so hot! Most of my pregnancy has taken place during winter and yet my breasts seem to have heated up faster than any other part of me. I had to be careful to wear breathable layers (and breathable bras) so that I could regulate my upper body more easily.

Did something happen to your breasts or bra size that you weren't expecting during pregnancy? Share your stories in the comments section below and help someone else understand their bonkers baby boobs! xx

5 Tips to Make Your Bra Last Longer

Bras for large breasts work extremely hard to keep your breasts in place and secure. The constant strain on the fabric and elastic in your bra gradually stretches the bra over time until it no longer has enough elasticity to support your breasts. All bras wear out eventually but there are things you can do to make your investment in your bras go further. Here are my top 5 tips for longer lasting bra fit:

Buy Bras That Fit
I know this might seem obvious but a bra that doesn't fit you in the band and cup will die faster than one that does. This is because you pull at bras that don't fit you which stretches out the material and if your cups are too small or your band is too big the whole bra is under excess strain that deteriorates it faster. Here's a reminder of the 5 fit checks of a well-fitting bra:

1. All your breast tissue sits inside your cups (even the tissue at your armpit).
2. The band lies parallel with the floor all the way around your body.
3. The gore sits flush with your body and is comfortable.
4. Your straps don't slip and aren't digging into your shoulders.
5. The wing is supportive and comfortable without digging into your armpit or with breast tissue spilling over the top of the wing.

How You Put On Your Bra
Lots of women don't realize that the way they put on their bra is causing it to die faster. If you hook your bra in the front then twist it around your body it puts the band elastic under huge strain. It also means you're unlikely to be wearing your best fit from the outset as you probably can't twist the correct band size around your body. These two things combined could be shaving 3 to 6 months off the life of your bra. Get hold of the two ends in front of you (do them up as a trial run then unhook again and don't move the position of your hands) pass your arms around your body and do up the hooks. Once you've got this bit done you can lean forward and place your breasts into the cups then lift the straps onto your shoulders. This takes some practice but could save you hundreds of dollars.

Washing and Drying
I've written a lot about how to wash and dry your bras to make them last longer. Here is a recap of the main points:

1. Hand washing is best but if you need to machine wash use a cool cycle and a laundry bag.
2. Never put your bras in the tumble dryer. Heat kills elastic.
3. Hang dry your bras from the center gore, don't hang them from the straps because this stretches out the straps and compromises the fit.

Buy Quality Over Quantity
Not all bras are created equal. Lots of the mall lingerie retailers offer buy 2 get 1 free specials on bras up to a DD or DDD. While this might look like a great way to pad out your lingerie draw you need to think about the quality. These deals usually appear on molded cups (a single piece of shaped fabric) where the straps are attached by one or two rows of stitching. These styles tend not to have reinforced wire tracks (the tubes the wires sit in inside your bra) which is why it's so common for the wires to pop out. You really are better investing in two or three bras of good quality (that fit you well) than having lots of cheaper bras of lesser quality. 

Cycling Your Bras
Your body heat, sweat and salts are what erode the elasticity in your bra. You need to let a bra rest for at least 24 hours and preferably 48 before wearing it again and this means you need at least 3 basic bras to cycle through the week.

The salt build up in your bra (from your sweat) needs to be washed out after every three to four wears unless you sweat a lot in which case you need to wash after every one to two wears.

While there's no guarantee as to how long a bra will last (it depends on your lifestyle, breast weight, torso shape and perspiration) by using some or all of these tips you can prolong the life of your bra investment. xx

Weight Loss and Bra Fit

Whether you are deliberately losing weight or have experienced weight loss through a life experience like surgery or bereavement, the change in your bra size and fit can be very noticeable. Lots of people think their boobs will change size when they lose weight but there are lots of other things that can happen.

How each of us loses or gains weight is predominantly determined by our genes. The kind of exercises you do and your diet can make some difference but the biggest factor is your genetics. With this in mind there are no rules as to how you will lose weight or how your bra fit will change.

How to make your band last longer during weight loss

Using a bra extender on a smaller band can make your bras last longer if you're losing weight from your torso (Panache Sports Bra shown)

Some women will lose weight from their torso (back and stomach fat) and this changes their band size. Wearing a supportive band size is essential, especially if you are losing weight as part of a health plan over a long period of time. You can find bra extenders very useful during weight loss so that you can buy a band size that's a little snug initially but use the extenders to give you a comfortable fit for a longer period of time. This way you don't have to compromise on a supportive fit or comfort and your dollar goes further.

Losing from the band but not the cup
Losing weight from your torso does not necessarily mean that you will lose weight from your breasts. I know this might seem crazy to some people but it's very common that you can find your old bras still fit you in the cups but are too big in the band. To accommodate this change you need to go up a cup letter for every band size you have come down.

For example, if your best fit was a 34F (also known as a 34DDD) and your cups still fit but you now measure a 31 around your ribcage you need to try a 32FF (one band size down and one cup letter up) or a 30G (two band sizes down and 2 cup letters up). It can seem counter-intuitive when losing weight to find that your cup letter has gone up but remember that the letter refers to the difference between your band circumference and bust circumference. When you lose weight from your band but your bust volume stays the same it means the difference between these two measurements has increased which is why your cup letter goes up.
Losing from the cups but not the band
Similarly, you can lose volume from your breasts but find that your band size stays the same. This is an easy change to make in your size as you need to try smaller cup letters on the same band size.

Losing weight from both band and cups
If you lose weight from your torso and breasts then you need a smaller band and cup so a service like our Free Size Consultation can help you figure out which size is right for you.

Other weight loss fit factors
There are a couple of other factors you should know about breasts and weight loss. Losing fat can change the density of your breasts so where you might have had some upper breast tissue you can find that this has gone and you need to look for bras better for shallower breasts. Weight loss can also make stretch marks on your breasts more visible as the skin becomes less taut. This can also leave you with softer breast tissue than before so you might want to know about bra fit tips for soft breasts.

Bra investment during weight loss
I know lots of women find it hard to justify investment in well-fitting bras when they don't know how long the size will fit them. If you are losing weight over a long period of time then wearing well-fitting bras will not only support your bust but it will stop other issues arising, like back pain and headaches. If you have suddenly lost weight that has affected your bra size you may put the weight back on quickly and get back into your regular sizes, but equally you might be at your smaller size for a while. You don't need to buy lots of new bras in the smaller size, one or two will do, but the correct support will make you physically more comfortable while you're recovering. xx