Sternum Shape and Bra Fit

Cora over at The Lingerie Addict asked me why the gores tack on her 34C bras but only tack at the top but not the bottom on her 32Ds and don't tack at all on her 30DD/E bras. This sounds counter-intuitive to most fit information because we learn that when your band is too big the gore stands away from your breast bone so why would Cora's gores tack in big bands but not smaller band sister sizes? The answer lies in ribcage and sternum shape.

Band Size and Ribcage Shape
Let's start with the band. When we measure around our ribcage (the parallel line directly below your breast root) it tells us the circumference of only part of our ribcage. Bra bands are several inches deep and wrap around a greater depth than the single ribcage measurement we can take with a measuring tape. I want to make it clear that the underbust measurement is well worth taking because it's a great starting point but for lots of women it needs to be taken in conjunction with other bra fit factors.

If you have a broad back or a flared ribcage (it's worth reading my article on torso shape and bra fit) then your band has to stretch around large and small circumferences simultaneously. The measuring tape measurement probably tells you the smallest circumference that your bra band will stretch around which is why someone like Cora can measure a 30 around but find her best fit in a 34 band because her ribcage might flare out into a broader back or acute angle which is better suited to a larger band.

Cora, The Lingerie Addict, in a shoot by Old School Pinups wearing Kiss Me Deadly Sirena Corset

In a 30 band Cora's bra is staining over a wider part of her ribcage which lifts the gore away from her sternum at the front. In a 32 band the strain is less so the gore is tilted and fits either at the top and not the bottom of vice versa. In a 34 band the strain is relieved and the gore can sit flush against the sternum. Women with flared ribcages sometimes find that they get some hollow space just below their gore where they can fit several fingers underneath their gore - the is quite normal and in general doesn't detrimentally affect fit.

Breast Bone Shape
The other fit factor to consider when a larger band fits you better than a smaller one is the angle and shape of your breast bone. When you measure around your ribcage it cannot take into account the shape of your breast bone (sternum). When your sternum is acutely angled or protruding you often find that you need either a very short gore than sits below your sternum or you need a larger band to accommodate the shape of the breast bone. You may find that your breast bone hollows where your gore is meant to tack, or that it protrudes more at the top than the bottom. This shaping of your sternum affects which band size and gore height will work best for you.

The band number and cup letters are far less important than finding a fit that feels right to you so don't worry if you measure a 28GG but find that a 30G or 32FF fits you better, it could very well be that other aspects of your torso are affecting your fit. xx

5 Tips to Make Your Bra Last Longer

Bras for large breasts work extremely hard to keep your breasts in place and secure. The constant strain on the fabric and elastic in your bra gradually stretches the bra over time until it no longer has enough elasticity to support your breasts. All bras wear out eventually but there are things you can do to make your investment in your bras go further. Here are my top 5 tips for longer lasting bra fit:

Buy Bras That Fit
I know this might seem obvious but a bra that doesn't fit you in the band and cup will die faster than one that does. This is because you pull at bras that don't fit you which stretches out the material and if your cups are too small or your band is too big the whole bra is under excess strain that deteriorates it faster. Here's a reminder of the 5 fit checks of a well-fitting bra:

1. All your breast tissue sits inside your cups (even the tissue at your armpit).
2. The band lies parallel with the floor all the way around your body.
3. The gore sits flush with your body and is comfortable.
4. Your straps don't slip and aren't digging into your shoulders.
5. The wing is supportive and comfortable without digging into your armpit or with breast tissue spilling over the top of the wing.

How You Put On Your Bra
Lots of women don't realize that the way they put on their bra is causing it to die faster. If you hook your bra in the front then twist it around your body it puts the band elastic under huge strain. It also means you're unlikely to be wearing your best fit from the outset as you probably can't twist the correct band size around your body. These two things combined could be shaving 3 to 6 months off the life of your bra. Get hold of the two ends in front of you (do them up as a trial run then unhook again and don't move the position of your hands) pass your arms around your body and do up the hooks. Once you've got this bit done you can lean forward and place your breasts into the cups then lift the straps onto your shoulders. This takes some practice but could save you hundreds of dollars.

Washing and Drying
I've written a lot about how to wash and dry your bras to make them last longer. Here is a recap of the main points:

1. Hand washing is best but if you need to machine wash use a cool cycle and a laundry bag.
2. Never put your bras in the tumble dryer. Heat kills elastic.
3. Hang dry your bras from the center gore, don't hang them from the straps because this stretches out the straps and compromises the fit.

Buy Quality Over Quantity
Not all bras are created equal. Lots of the mall lingerie retailers offer buy 2 get 1 free specials on bras up to a DD or DDD. While this might look like a great way to pad out your lingerie draw you need to think about the quality. These deals usually appear on molded cups (a single piece of shaped fabric) where the straps are attached by one or two rows of stitching. These styles tend not to have reinforced wire tracks (the tubes the wires sit in inside your bra) which is why it's so common for the wires to pop out. You really are better investing in two or three bras of good quality (that fit you well) than having lots of cheaper bras of lesser quality. 

Cycling Your Bras
Your body heat, sweat and salts are what erode the elasticity in your bra. You need to let a bra rest for at least 24 hours and preferably 48 before wearing it again and this means you need at least 3 basic bras to cycle through the week.

The salt build up in your bra (from your sweat) needs to be washed out after every three to four wears unless you sweat a lot in which case you need to wash after every one to two wears.

While there's no guarantee as to how long a bra will last (it depends on your lifestyle, breast weight, torso shape and perspiration) by using some or all of these tips you can prolong the life of your bra investment. xx

Bra Fit and Digestive Issues

Digestive image courtesy of DocStoc

Thousands of women suffer from digestive issues. Conditions including food allergies, acid reflux, and irritable bowel syndrome can be exacerbated by your bra fit. As these digestive issues are so common I wanted to explain the causes and the solutions I recommend for my clients.

The Right Band
The band of your bra passes directly around your stomach and upper duodenum (the beginning of your small intestine responsible for breaking down food). The pressure from your band can cause your digestive issue to flare up. It's tempting to think that the only solution is to wear a looser band, but that may not be your only solution.

Profile Perfect is a bandless bra as there is no material below the wire

It's a good idea to wear the loosest band size you can without compromising your fit, but wearing a band that is too loose will cause other issues so don't go too loose. Look for bandless bras; these are bras that don't have an extra strip of fabric below the wires. Minimizing how much fabric goes around your body will reduce the area of pressure on your digestive system. This simple style alteration can make a big difference to some sufferers.

The Right Gore
Your gore puts pressure on your sternum (or breast bone) which in turn can put pressure on your esophagus (the organ through which your food travels to your stomach). To relieve the pressure on your esophagus you can also try a looser band, however, it's also worth experimenting with different gore heights.

A lower gore, like this one on Idina can relieve digestive discomfort for some women

Some women find that wearing a short gore (like plunge styles) relieves the pressure on their esophagus. Other women find that wearing a tall gore spreads the pressure over a larger area and that is more comfortable. It's also possible to bend the wires at your gore away from the body so that the pressure is relieved (this requires a bit of effort but is very effective).

Wirefree Bras
You condition may be such that any wire pressure is going to aggrivate your condition so you need to wear a wire free bra. Wirefree styles can be hard to find in GG+ cups but you can find nursing bras that will give you support without wires. You will have a different shape without the wires but the benefit to your health is worth it.

Medical Attention
If you try different bra styles and sizes and still have unmanageable digestive issues you must seek medical attention.

I hope these tips can help you find a more comfortable fit so that your bra support isn't at the expense of your digestive comfort! xx

The Right to Bra Choice

There is a lot of science to bras, but there is an equal amount of choice. I always tell my clients that I can tell you how a bra is technically supposed to fit but if it doesn't feel right to you or you don't like the style then it's the wrong bra because you won't wear it, and that defeats the point.

I have said before that just because a bra is your size does not mean it will fit you and this is because style is as important to fit as size. Depending on your physique some bras will have cups that are too far apart or too close together, wings that are too high or too short or cups that are too round or too flat. This doesn't make you or the bra wrong, it just means you're not destined for one another.

Over the past 6 months there have been a few bra conversations in the media and social outlets that undermine the idea that bra fit is unique to each individual. There are two commandments that I urge you not to break; 1) a bra band that rides up your back means your bra is totally redundant and 2) cups that don't encase your whole breast can damage your breast tissue. However, aside from a band that supports and cups that don't rest on breast tissue the rest of bra fit is a very personal thing.

As long as it doesn't ride up the choice of how tight you prefer your band is up to you (l) Delphi (r) Profile Perfect

You may like a bra band that is very snug, or you may prefer it to be as loose as it will go without riding up. Neither of these things is wrong, they're just choices and that's what I think the whole bra business should be about. Manufacturers should strive to give choice in both size and style and commentators, like us, should strive to empower and inspire women to explore their choices. It's personal choice that I think has been challenged by articles saying you should never wear a tight band or you should never have cups that come too high. From bloggers to manufacturers there are some pretty stark articles out there that say "the way I say to wear a bra is right and anyone who disagrees is wrong." and that's just plain nonsense! What feels right for one woman will feel awful for another so we need to stop telling each other what we have to do and encourage each other to find our best fit, whatever that might be.

Your best bra fit will rarely be an overnight epiphany. It is an ever-evolving journey that changes with your body, life and preferences. What I hope for all of you lovely readers is that you have the knowledge to understand what your best bra fit looks and feels like (bands that are parallel around your body and smooth cups are the foundation) and the confidence to pursue your journey with an open mind (never say never to a leopard print bra!)

Every now and then I think bra conversations need grounding. Goodness knows I understand how passionate and emotional the subject is, but we must remember that we don't need anyone else's approval to be happy in our bra choices, we just need to seek out what makes us happy in our bras. If you are in doubt about where to begin finding your best fit or how to get out of your own bra rut then our support team can help and I highly recommend Fuller Figure Fuller Bust, The Lingerie Addict, Boosaurus, Bratabase, Venusian Glow and Braless in Brasil for bra fit information and pure lingerie inspiration. xx

3 Reasons Why You Spill Out of Your Cups

Spilling out of your bra cups ranges from a little bit of breast tissue pillowing at the top of your cups to breast tissue falling out of the middle and sides of your cups creating a quadrabood and even sextaboob look. Having a cup that's big enough to encase your whole breast doesn't just look more polished it's also easier on your breast tissue which isn't stretched and bisected by cup edges digging into it. There are three main reasons why your breast tissue spills out of your cups. They can happen individually, in pairs or all 3 simultaneously!

Cup Spilling Reason #1 - CUPS
It's a painfully obvious one... Your cups are too small. A lot of women don't know that cup sizes go beyond a D cup or don't realize that the tissue at their armpit is actually breast tissue and not fat and wants to live inside the cup rather than be forced out. A well fitting bra cup will encircle the breast either all the way around (full cup) or in a semi-circle at the bottom leaving the top exposed (demi cups, balconettes and plunges). Whatever the style, where the cup comes into contact with the breast the cups want to go around the outside edge of the breast not sit on it.

This image from Thin and Curvy demonstrates how your cups sag at the front when your band is too big

Cup Spilling Reason #2 - BAND
Your band is too loose. My old favourite, the band! You may actually be wearing a cup volume that's right for you but the band is too big (remember that the cup volume is different from the cup letter - a 38E, 36F and 34FF have the same cup volume but different cup letters). When your band is too big for you the whole bra is tilted at an angle which tips forward under the weight of your breasts. When the angle is tipped forward like this it skews the angle of your cups and your breasts can fall out of the cups even when the cup volume is big enough for you. You need the band to keep your whole bra in place so that the cups can work effectively. If your band rides up your back then you need a smaller band and a larger cup letter, possibly even a larger cup volume.

Cup Spilling Reason #3 - STYLE
The style is wrong for you. You may find that in some bras that no matter which size you try you still spill out of the cups and that simply means that the style isn't right for you. If you have very close-set breasts or very full on top breasts you may come across this more often than other breast shapes. If the style of the bra cuts very acutely across the place where you have full breast tissue then you will always get some quadraboobing. Once you figure out which styles of bras work well with your shape you'll know how to spot a style that just isn't right for your breasts.

Our bra calculator is an easy and quick place to start figuring out your bra size and to stop your cups spilling xx

Back Fat and Bra Fit

This isn't a term I love but there's no getting around it, lots of women ask me about back fat. I'm going to start by saying that in the big scheme of things back fat is not something you need to worry about. No one who matters is looking at your back and judging you so you don't need to scrutinize yourself either. Having said that I know that it bothers lots of women so I want to help you understand how your bra size and shape can affect how your body looks under clothing. There are two main causes of avoidable back fat 1) bands that are too loose and 2) wings that are too shallow.

How a Loose Band Gives You Back Fat
When your band is too big for you it rides up your back creating an arch shape which cuts across the widest part of your back and pushes the flesh downwards which creates rolls on your back. The weight of your unsupported bust at the front pulls the tissue near your armpit to be pushed up which creates overhang too.

The red line shows where the bra band should lie so that the flesh is not pushed up or down

Lots of women think that a snug bra will give them back fat but it will do quite the opposite. A snug band will fit you at the narrowest part of your torso. The will stop the flesh above and below being forced up or down into rolls. A loose band doesn't just cause rolls it also lowers your bust at the front and causes your straps to dig in.

How the Depth of Your Wings Affect Back Fat
Bras with deeper wings will smooth out your back. Just as long panels of shapewear smooth you out under clothing so too a deeper wing will smooth out your back.

Left, Lucy by Cleo. Right, Profile Perfect by FayreForm

In the image above you can see that the wings on Lucy are shallower than the wings on Profile Perfect. The deeper wings spread out the pressure of the band over a greater area and so the back appears smoother than the shallower wing

Fit is more important than Fat
If you carry a lot of weight around your back then you are always going to get some dips where your bra fits but having a bra that fits you correctly is more important than something even you can't see without twisting in a mirror. If it really bothers you then you can wear shapewear over your bra that will add another smoothing layer to your undergarments but in general choosing a bra that is the best shape and band size for you will make a huge difference to the smoothness of your look xx

3 Easy Bra Alterations That Can Improve Your Bra Fit

You can find a great fitting bra by understanding your size and knowing which styles of bra suit you. However, our bodies are so unique and different that many women find that they need to alter a new bra to get a great-fitting bra. Here are 3 of the most common bra alterations many women need to make to their bras and how you can do these alterations.

Marcie on the left has a narrower gore than Porcelain Viva on the right.

1) Narrowing The Gore
If your breasts are very close together it can be difficult to find a bra with a gore that is narrow enough to fit between your breasts. A gore that is too wide for you can sit on your breast tissue or cause the breast tissue to pillow over the gore. If a bra fits you in the cups and band but the gore is too wide then narrowing the gore can transform your fit. The gore tends to be a rigid piece of material (occasionally it's elasticated, but not often) that can be narrowed easily.

How To Fix Put on your bra then slide your fingers in behind the gore and pinch together the excess gore material. If you can't undo your bra by yourself you'll have to ask someone else to unhook you (so that you don't let go of the pinched material) then put a pin or two in place where the material pinches together.

Sew along the pinned seam. You will probably find that you don't need to remove the excess material, however, if you'd prefer to remove it then you can. Be aware that narrowing your gore can make your band feel tighter.

The wires on Lucy (left) are shorter than the wires on Tango (right) in the same cup size

2) Stopping The Wires Poking Your Armpit
Lots of women find that their bras poke them in the armpit. This can be a particularly prevalent issue for women with short torsos (or high breasts). Some bra styles and brands have longer wires than other bras and so you may find that you prefer brands and styles with shorter wires. However, if you have a very large bust (and especially if you have a short torso) you can find that the wires poke you no matter which style you try because the wires have to be long to support your bust volume.

How To Fix It sounds rather basic but you can bend your bra wires and by bending the wire under your armpit away from the body it can make a big difference to your comfort. Bra wires are very sturdy so you might have to spend a little time bending the wires. I tend to do this to my new bras whilst watching a movie - it's strangely therapeutic!

Some women always need to shorten their band so that a new bra fits them on the loosest set of hooks

3) Shortening The Band
Lots of women need shorter bands than the ones available on the market. A style that suits you in the cups may only begin as a 30 band and you need to shorten it to a 28. For other women they may want to get more life out of a bra by shortening the band. You can do this alteration by hand, however, it's easier with a sewing machine.

How To Fix This demonstration by Dressing Curves is far better than anything I can describe so I'm deferring to her wonderful post here.

There are lots of other alterations you can attempt or have a seamstress do for you. Here is a list of some other posts about bra alterations:

Dressing Curves - Moving the Strap Position
By Baby's Rules - How to lower and narrow the gore
Bratabase - List of Bra Alteration Posts
Boosaurus - Tightening a Stretchy Band
Fix a Bra - Wires poking through the material
This post from Braless in Brasil gives you 10 great guidelines for altering bras

I believe that a lot of women who currently experience problems with their bras will find they get a near-perfect fit in the correct bra size and style for them. However, I think it's important to remember that the imperfections in bra fit are more apparent than the fit imperfections in clothing and we have to bear that in mind when trying on bras. When you know the fit imperfections that are easily fixed and the ones that simply mean the size or style is totally wrong for you it can make a big difference to perfecting your fit and widening your options xx

Why Do Victoria's Secret Measure OVER your breasts?

Every week Lucy and I do online bra size consultations for women across North America. The majority of women who request a consultation have been fitted at Victoria's Secret and these are the women who invariably have the most bra complaints. These women are without fail wearing a band that is four to EIGHT inches bigger than their body as well as experiencing issues like straps that dig into their shoulders, cups that spill and straps that slip. The reason these complaints are so common with women who have been fitted at Victoria's Secret is because they measure for band size over the top of your breasts under your armpits. By measuring this way Victoria's Secret recommends that your band should be at least four inches bigger than your body, a fitting technique that is disastrous for full-busted women.

VS Fit Errors: Left: Band riding up, Center: Gore not against body, Right: Band not flush with the body

Victoria's Secret comes in for a lot of grief because good bra fit is not their main focus. Their models are often in the wrong bras in product shoots and runway shows and their over-zealous Photoshopping (to make models look skinnier or bras fit better) is legendary. In reality Victoria's Secret doesn't position itself as an expert in bra fit, they very rarely allude to bra fit at all. They are in the business of making a few bra styles and a few bra sizes in alluring colours and affordable prices that make you aspire to looking 'as sexy as an Angel'. The bra sizes and styles that Victoria's Secret do make are mostly suited to women with smaller breast volumes with closer-set breasts who need more band than cup ratio because their breasts are in a different position to full busted women.

Related Articles: The women who need to add inches to their band size

Victoria's Secret only makes 36 bra sizes and in practice there are over 175 bra sizes regularly available on the market (Butterfly Collection carries over 60 sizes) and over 148 other sizes available through specialty manufacturers. So you can see that the number of women for whom Victoria's Secret really can offer great bra fit is very narrow. The +4 measuring technique is appropriate for some of the women who can wear the limited size and style range from VS so that's how they can justify using the +4 technique. The problem is, Victoria's Secret will never tell you if their bras and bra fitting technique is not right for you (and let's face it, that's most of us). They'll never concede that your band size is smaller than those they carry or that your breast volume requires a cup size they don't have. Nope, they'll just use the same fitting technique on a full-busted woman and send her away in a bra that will causes a myriad of fit issues.

This is my greatest grievance with Victoria's Secret. Their lack of honesty about their fitting method's effectiveness leaves women feeling that their bodies are wrong, which doesn't make you feel 'as sexy as an Angel'. With their brand position in the market Victoria's Secret could be a hugely empowering influence on improving bra education and diminishing breast stigma in North America, but unfortunately they are part of the machine that perpetuates the idea that bra sizes outside of the 32-38 A-D paradigm is alien and that bra fit is secondary to looking sexy. 

No matter how dominant a brand is it's up to us as consumers to decide whether a product is right for us. Your breast health is too important to blindly put your faith in a gigantic marketing machine that tells you bras are just about push-ups and pouting. We need to be savvy shoppers who understand what good bra fit looks like and then decide whether Victoria's Secret bras offer us that fit (for many women the answer will be yes, but for the vast majority of us the answer is no).

How I Recommend Finding Your Band Size
I maintain that getting your band size right is the most important part of finding great bra fit because your cup size is determined IN RELATION to your band so without knowing your band size you can't begin to find the right fit.

Related Articles: Not all D cups are the Same and What Sister Size Bras Look Like

I recommend a good starting point for working out your band size is to wrap a tape measure around your ribcage directly under your breasts, against your skin where your band should lie. There's no need to breathe out or pull tightly, simply put the tape measure flat against your skin so that it is parallel with the floor all around your body. This measurement (in inches) is the best starting point for finding your band size (if you're an odd number then simply round up one to the next even number as your starting band size).

Related Tool: Bra Size Calculator

This is a starting point from which you might add or subtract inches depending on your physique. The reason that +0 is an impartial starting point is that as many women will need to add inches as need to subtract them so starting at zero means there's no weighting in either direction. As a very general rule of thumb, if you have a muscular, toned or just firm ribcage then you might have to add inches to your band size to allow for flexibility. If you have a fleshy torso or a springy ribcage then you might find that you need to subtract inches to find your band size because your band can't anchor to fat which moves up and down your body as you move so you need a firmer fit that account for the wobble of our middle bits (I wear one band size smaller than my ribcage measurement as my torso is squidgy).

I hope this helps you figure out whether your body and breasts fit one of the 36 sizes available at Victoria's Secret. If you are then you'll probably find that their over the breasts measuring method works for you, and if you're not then you've got another 300+ bra sizes to choose from! xx

Directory of Full Bust Bloggers

Since I started blogging about Butterfly Collection bras and life for busty women the bra blogosphere has grown a lot! There is a wealth of diverse women writing about different breast sizes and shapes, fashion for busty and/or plus size and bra fit. To help you figure out which bloggers are right for you I've compiled a directory broken down by theme:

26-30 Band Full Bust Bloggers
These bloggers are very knowledgeable about the style, fit and comfort issues associated with being small in the band and large in the cup.
Invest in Your Chest
Curvy Wordy
Busts 4 Justice
Thin and Curvy
Le Curvy Kitten
Braless in Brazil
By Baby's Rules
Bras and Body Image
Venusian Glow
Undercover Lingerista
Quest for the Perfect Bra
A Sophisticated Pair
Miss Underpinnings
Obsessed with Breasts
Bras I Hate

32+ Band Full Bust Bloggers
These bloggers are full busted (D+ cups) and range from regular dress sizes to plus size.
Fuller Figure Fuller Bust
XL Hourglass
Fussy Busty
Bra Nightmares
The Full Figured Chest
Hourglassy

Boudoir, Sleepwear and General Lingerie Reviews
These bloggers cover lingerie not specific to the full bust market. Beautiful to look at and some pieces that work for full bust women, these bloggers are well worth checking out.
The Lingerie Addict
Sweet Nothings NYC
The Full Figured Chest
The Lingerie Lesbian

Full Bust Bra Fitting Advice
Considering that bra fit is essential for feeling comfortable and supported it's no wonder this is such a widely discussed topic. As a professional bra fitter I take this subject very seriously and I recommend these sites for their bra fitting advice.
Venusian Glow Fitting
Boosaurus Fitting
Thin and Curvy Fitting
Invest in Your Chest Fitting
Fuller Figure Fuller Bust Fitting
Braless in Brasil Fitting
Sweet Nothing NYC Fitting

Full Bust Clothing Reviews (non-plus size)
Clothing for full bust women can be very tricky. A lot of clothing isn't tailored for dramatic curves so these reviews are really helpful for working out which brands and styles work for full busts.
Thin and Curvy Clothes
Curvy Wordy 
Bras and Body Image Clothes
Bras I Hate Clothing
Hourglassy Clothing (Campbell and Kate Shirts)
Quest for a Perfect Bra Clothing
Miss Underpinnings Style
Le Curvy Kitten

Full Bust Clothing Reviews (plus-size)
If you are full busted and also a plus size woman then finding clothes can be doubly difficult sometimes. These reviewers find clothing and styles for plus sized full bust women.
Fuller Figure Fuller Bust Clothing
Curvy Wordy

I hope you find this list useful, I will update it whenever I can. There is such a wealth of knowledge out there and it can help you feel happy, confident and comfortable in your full bust life! xx

Video: 5 Problems Caused by a Bra Band that is Too Big

As you know the most common problem I see with bra fit is women wearing a bra band that is too big for them.

Related Article: Is Your Bra Fitter Giving You The Right Bra?

A bra band that is too big for you can cause lots of problems and in this week's Vlog I explain how it causes the 5 most common issues:

1. Bra Band Riding Up
2. Bra Straps Slipping
3. Bra Straps Digging In
4. Cups Spilling
5. Wires Digging In

Click Here to Watch

For more information on why some stores use Sister Sizing to fit you into a 38D when you really need a 32FF read this blog post. xx

The Difference Between Bra Facts and Bra Preference

When you start researching bras and bra fit you quickly realize that it's a pretty huge topic. This is because boobs are as diverse and unique as the women they live on. There are lots of different bra blogs out there and they all have different information depending on their personal style, breast shape and lifestyle. It can be confusing to know which information is right for you.

In general the information breaks down into two groups. Firstly there are facts about what good bra fit looks and feels like; this information is pretty much non-negotiable. Secondly there are bra preferences like style, shape, colour and comfort levels. There are no right or wrongs in the bra preferences, it's totally down to the individual. To help you decipher the must-know bra facts from bra preferences I've put together a quick cheat's list:

Bra Facts

1. All your breast tissue (including that squidgy bit at your armpit that you think is fat) should sit inside the cup.
2. Your bra band should stay in place and not ride up your back.
3. Bra straps should not slip off and should not dig in.
4. A new bra should fit you on the loosest set of hooks first (unless it's a maternity bra)
5. Your gore (the part between your breasts) should be flush with your body.

Bra Preferences

1. Whether you prefer to wear a balconette bra, a plunge, a full cup or a wire-free. There are no hard and fast rules about what you have to wear (other than wearing a sports bra when active)
2. How tight your band has to be. Some women prefer a really tight band, others like it just firm and some prefer to have it as loose as it can go without compromising fit (as soon as it starts to ride up then your band is too loose).
3. Shape - some women love rounded cups or lots of cleavage, some like a more minimized look. Whatever shape you like you can find bras that will give you that look.
4. Price - There is no right price to pay for a bra, it depends on what you're comfortable paying for the amount of wear you will get out of it. A well constructed bra that is worn and cared for well should last between 8 and 18 months (depending on how often you wear it).
5. Style - There are lots of different styles of bras that fit different breast shapes differently. Working out your breast shape will really help you work out which bra bloggers have reviews that are relevant to your shape. Check out Bratabase's Breast Shape Gallery.

Once you have the bra facts nailed down you can start to explore the bra preferences that suit your body and personal style. When you find bras that tick all the boxes on the bra facts list and have all the things you're looking for in your bra preferences you have found your bra sweet spot! xx

5 Things To Look For In A Bra Band

Your bra band is the beginning of great bra fit. In my opinion it is the most important part of your bra and it's a good idea to know how bra bands differ so you can work out what's right for you. The band is so important because it is the part of your bra that should take the majority of your bust's weight (it can only do this by being snug). Because it is the biggest part of your bra to make contact with your body it can disperse the weight of your bust over a greater area (if your band is loose the whole weight rests on your straps which is painful). The more the weight is dispersed, the more comfortable you'll be.

Banded bras have material below the wire/seam of the cup like on Medina

Banded Bras
Pros: A Banded Bra has a piece of material that extends below the wire or seam of the cups. This piece of material can vary in depth (longline bras have several inches of material below the cups) and it is often cushioned or lined to give extra comfort. A band increases the surface area over which your bust's weight is dispersed so many women like to have a banded bra because it eases the weight of their bust.

Cons: Some women find that a banded bra flips up. This can happen when your midriff protrudes farther out than your band and your body forces against the band. It can also happen if you have a narrow torso and your cups are too wide for you. This problem is irritating more than detrimental to your fit.

Profile Perfect is a Great Bandless Bra with Firm Support

Bandless Bras
Pros: It might surprise you to know that some bras are considered to be without a band. A bandless bra doesn't have any material below the cups. The central gore and wings attach directly to the cups. For women with high tummies or an outwardly flared ribcage a bandless bra can be much more comfortable.

Cons: With less surface area some women find that a bandless bra is less comfortable for them. If you have your band size correct the wings and back band of the bra should be able to take a great deal of your bust's weight.

I love that Claudette use 3 row hooks on all their bras

Bra Hooks
Most bras have three columns of eyes and you should think of these as a timeline. Hook onto the eyes nearest the edge of your band when you first buy a bra then work inwards as the bra ages and stretches. If you buy a new bra that fits you on the middle column, or worse the tightest column, straight away then you're throwing away months of comfortable fit and money!

The number of hooks on the back of your bra gives you an indication of what the support and comfort is like. Similar to the depth of the band, the more rows of hooks on your band the more support you can expect. Very few D+ cup bras have one row of hooks and this is because you need more support than one row for a full bust. Most bras have two rows and this is ample for many women.

Three rows of hooks will give you a deeper back band and again disperse the weight over more area. It also gives you a firmer support (your breasts will move less at the front) and you might find that it helps with your posture.

Some firm support bras have four and even five rows of hooks (longline bras will have many more rows). If you have a very heavy bust or enjoy a very firm fit then extra rows will be great for you.

The wing is the part under your armpit - Tango Beige

Wing Depth
The part of your band that attaches to the outside of your cups under your armpits and stretches around your back is called the wing. The depth of this part of your bra can make a difference to your comfort. If you have a short torso then this can be a particularly important fit issue. Measure the depth of the wing of your most comfortable bra and look for bras with a similar or lesser depth. Claudette is particularly good for shallower wings that improve comfort for women with shorter torsos (they offset the support with 3 rows of hooks on every bra).

Bra Band Size
There are two very simple tests you can do to see if your band size is giving you enough support. The first is to lift your arms straight up in the air. If you band moves up your body (usually exposing breast tissue as it moves) then your band is too big. The second test is to pull your bra away at the front using two fingers. If you can pull your bra away from your body more than a couple of millimeters then your band is too big.

I hope this helps you narrow down the kinds of bands that are going to give you the best fit. If you need help figuring out your size our Free Bra Size Consultation is a great place to start xx

Video: What Your Bra Straps Are Really For

This might sound self explanatory but when a recent Facebook question from a big American bra manufacturer asked the question 'which part of your bra should take the weight of your bust?' a scary number of women said, "the straps" which shows we don't know what they're for... xx

How to Help Friends and Family Find Better Bra Fit

It is wonderful and necessary that women who understand good bra fit share this enthusiasm and knowledge with others. You may know someone in the wrong bra and have tried to share your knowledge but found that you were met with resistance. This reluctance to embrace, or even discuss, good bra fit can cause many of us to get frustrated and disheartened. To try and alleviate the frustration I want to give you some tools when talking to women in badly fitting bras.


1) Your bra knowledge can be seem quite complex and overwhelming for someone else.

When we're excited about something it's easy to forget that not everyone else feels the same way. If you unleash all your bra knowledge onto someone (who may not have actually asked you to share it with them) they won't be able to take it in and the whole thing will seem daunting rather than liberating so they shut down. When this happens I truly understand that it can be frustrating. Why aren't they whipping off their terrible bra and immersing themselves in the joy of good bra fit?! But getting frustrated and cross with someone isn't going to help bring about positive change.

You have to appreciate that change takes time and during this time your consistent (rather than all at once) bra knowledge can lead to big changes for others. Be enthusiastic about how your bra fit has improved your life "I haven't had those horrible headaches since I started wearing the right bra" or "It has meant so much to me to start running again since I got properly fitted for a sports bra." Leading a bra-healthy life is the best example you can set to other women and inspiration always creates longer lasting change than simply telling someone to do something.

2) Your well-meaning "trust me you're in the wrong bra" can be interpreted as "trust me you're wrong" or "trust me, you're an idiot" and no one likes to be told they're wrong or stupid.

The frustration we feel when someone is in the wrong bra is born out of the knowledge that they will be so much happier in the right bra and we want them to be happy because we care about them. Be careful though, it's important not to turn that desire to share joy into making someone else feel bad. One thing I know for certain is that you have to be READY to change your bra fit.

Related Article: The Mental Leap from the Wrong Bra to the Right One

You cannot tell someone else when they are ready for better bra fit, so instead of coercing someone into a bra fitting make yourself available. For example, "Any time you want me to come with you to get a fitting, I'll be there." or "If you ever want me to help you work out your fit and buy some bras to try on at home you only have to ask, I'll have the martinis and measuring tape ready!" Making yourself open rather than appearing frustrated means that when the women in your life are ready to change their bra fit they trust that you will be there and trust that you won't judge them. 

3) You never know how someone's emotional history and self-esteem are bound to their body. 

This is the most important one. We are all a product of our experiences and if you grew up without any bra education then you may have internalized the discomfort, embarrassment and frustration of your ill-fitting bras into something being wrong with you. Avoiding sports, altering what you wear to hide your bust, shying away from public speaking or being noticed in general can stem from years of being in the wrong bra. Many women associate clothing of all types to be a measure of how 'wrong' their body is and so trying on bras will just be another occasion where they feel bad about themselves. Being confronted with lots of bra fitting advice can trigger body insecurity for lots of women.

You may read their reluctance to go bra shopping as stubbornness or stupidity but you have to remember that you don't know that woman's relationship with her body and specifically her breasts. I encounter lots of well-meaning young women berating their Mums for not wearing a better bra and I'm afraid it just won't bring about change. I always suggest that you start with baby steps and build up to a bra fitting with confidence first. It can take years to give someone the confidence to address their bra size so don't get disheartened but instead be part of that woman's journey. Give her the tools to believe she is worth supporting, mentally and physically and let her know that when she's ready to get her bust into a bra that's worthy of her, you'll be there.

Related Articles: These two personal stories of finding the courage to face bra fitting would be good recommendations for someone nervous about trying new bras. Layla's Story and Claudia's Story

I know it can be agonizing to see someone wearing a bra that is obviously painful and unflattering but I also know that you can't make someone prioritize their bra fit (and it's not your responsibility to get other women into the right bra). It's very important we don't segregate women into 'women in the right bras' and 'women wearing the wrong bras' or even more starkly put 'right women' and 'wrong women'. Great bra fit is for everyone we're all just at different stages of our bra journey. The women you know wearing the wrong bras are fortunate that they have you in their lives for when they're ready to take the next step in their bra journey xx

Video: Are We in A Bad Bra Fit Cycle

In my video blog this week I am once again tackling the subject of why the statistic about 80% of women being in the wrong bra size doesn't seem to have changed in many years. Just today I have read two articles from leading women's magazines giving out bra advice that is just plain wrong. With so many magazines, day time TV segments and boutiques dishing out the wrong information how can we spot good from bad fitting information.

I give you some insight to why this horrid statistic perpetuates and how we can begin to get rid of it. I hope you find it useful! xx

How do you know when your bra is dead?

If you have shortened your straps to gain support your bra is probably dead.

Today's blog post was suggested by one of my lovely customers who struggles to know when it's time to say goodbye to a bra. Because there are no hard and fast rules about how long a bra lasts it's important to know how to tell when your bra is dead because wearing it for a long time after it has lost its effectiveness can do you more harm than good.

Hooks
The hook and eye fastening on the back of your bra is the easiest place to start. When you buy a new bra it must fit you comfortably on the first row of hooks. This is because your bra will stretch and over time you need to be able to fasten your bra on the tighter rows to compensate for the elastic losing its tension. If you buy a bra that fits you on the second or third row of hooks then it won't fit for you for as long which means you're throwing away money.

Your bra should fit snugly on the first row of hooks so that you get the most life out of your bra

The first time you fasten your bra on the tightest set of hooks you know you have between 4 and 6 weeks left of regular wear (this depends on how often you wear it and how you wash it). If your bra doesn't show other signs of significant wear and tear (we'll cover those next) then you may be able to have the band shortened by a tailor (or do it yourself if you're good with a needle). When shortening a band it's important to shorten each side equally i.e. if you take an inch out of one side you must take an inch out of the other side. This ensures that your strap tension stays equal on each side.

Depending on how well this job is done (and the integrity of the rest of the bra) you can get a further 2 to 4 months of wear out of the bra. It won't last as long as a new bra with the same band length as the elastic has aged.

Elastic
This is the lifeblood of your bra. It's the elastic that keeps your band snug against your body (which is the part of your bra supporting most of your bust's weight) and it contributes to the shape of your cups and the support of your straps. Besides giving you support the elastic also makes your bra flexible so that it moves with you as your breathe and bend. As I've talked about before, elastic needs time to shrink back into place after it has been heated up by your body heat. This is the reason you should only wear a bra once every 3 days.

If you see white hairs appearing on the wing and band of your bra if means the elastic in the fabric has broken

No matter how well you take care of your bra the elastic will deteriorate over time and the bra will lose its support. It's worth noting that cheap bras are made with cheap elastics that stretch out quickly. More expensive bras use better grade elastics which are more resistant to heat and moisture so your investment lasts proportionally longer.

As the elastic in your bra stretches it begins to break and you will see this breakage in the fabric of your bra. Little white fronds will appear on the band, wings and straps. This is a sure fire sign that your bra is dead. No repairs or alterations will resuscitate this bra. The elastic that allows for breathing and movement is now dead so it's time to say goodbye.

The Fit
If a bra that once fit you well now seems to dig into your breastbone or poke you under the arms then you should check your fit signs (for example, is the band level at the front and back). The change in fit could be due to a change in your figure, however, it may also be an indication that the bra has died. If after checking the five fit signs you realize the bra is not giving you correct support then it's time for a new bra. If the bra still has the elastic in tact and the fabric isn't too worn then you should consider recycling it by donating to a thrift store.

Clear Damage
If there are holes in your cup or band, if there are hooks missing, wires poking through the material or any tearing on the material then your bra needs to be replaced. 

I hope this helps you figure out which of your bras need to be disposed of or recycled so that you aren't compromising your support and health on a dead bra xx

Big Boob Phobia!

I am afraid of clowns. I think they have machetes in their trouser-legs and they kill people who go to the circus. The logical side of my brain says there's probably a very small percentage of weapon-wielding, murderous funny-men but nonetheless I feel like crying when I see one. Perhaps the reason so many women have hang-ups about wearing a bra over a D cup is that they are actually suffering from Pectorusgiganticus; Fear of Big Boobs! (a word I just made up, naturally.)

Joking aside, it never ceases to amaze me how many women are afraid of bra letters over a D cup. It makes no difference what label you put on the ratio between your breast mass and your ribcage measurement (sexy right, that's what your bra size refers to) your boobs are still going to be that volume. Letter Phobia doesn't stop your boobs are spilling out of your bra or bouncing around so it's worthwhile getting educated about bra fit and what bra sizes actually mean.

Over several decades we have built up layers of phobias around boobs; women with big boobs are bimbos or promiscuous and they can't play sports or be pain-free. These phobias stem partly from a misogynistic language that keeps women feeling guilty about their bodies (but that's a topic for a whole other dissertation!) and partly from years of dreadful bra fitting knowledge. By fitting knowledge I don't just mean getting a good fitting at a boutique, I mean, being educated about bras.

As we grow up we're educated about periods, why we have them and what to do to manage them as they happen. Imagine never being told why you have periods or how a tampon should feel and work if used correctly. You'd spend your life blindly buying what you thought was best for you and wondering the whole time if there was something wrong with you. This is what we do to young girls about bras. We don't explain that bras should fit snugly at the band, how your cup size is relative to your band size and that breast sizes change regularly (every couple of weeks for some women). If we gave them this knowledge then the phobias around bras would begin to fade away.

It's such an old-fashioned idea that only a professional fitter can tell you about your boobs and bras. Your doctor gives you advice about how to live well (good diet, exercise etc) they don't just prescribe you antacid every time you have heartburn without ever explaining that cutting out fatty foods will stop the problem in the first place. Similarly a good bra-fitter should teach you about your fit, your breast shape, which styles work for you and how to keep an eye on your size. This way you'll understand your breasts and bras and there will be no room for phobia.

I think a lot of women worry that wearing a cup size over a D cup will make them look like they have big boobs. The reality is that a correctly fitting bra will make you look much more contained which makes your boobs look smaller than when they're bashing together somewhere near your waist!

If you think you might be suffering from Pectorusgiganticus then I want you to remember 3 things to try and overcome your phobia:

1) No one else needs to know your bra size so what difference does it make?
2) In the right size bra you won't bounce around or spill out of your cups (the two things that draw the kind of attention that can make you feel uncomfortable)
3) You can take your time but try to keep a piece of your mind open to the possibility that a different bra size could make you feel physically and emotionally better.

To every one of our customers and every reader of this blog I want you to know that you are changing the landscape for future generations of women. By educating yourselves about great bra fit you can pass on that gift and ensure that no-one has to suffer the terrible fear of Big Boobs!! xx

Smaller Bra Bands Are Better for Squidgy Torsos

A flesh indent caused by your bra band at your torso is completely normal

I'll say right off the bat that there is no way to be completely delicate in this article so let's lay it out on the table - we're talking about body fat. Fat can be a prickly word for some people but the reality is we've all got it and some of us have more around our torsos than others. If you carry weight around your mid-section then you might decide that you're a 'plus size' girl and discount yourself from wearing 28-38 bands and this could be your biggest mistake.

As you know at Butterfly Collection we use the +0 measurement technique as our base point for finding out your band size. For example, if you measure 34 around your ribcage then we recommend starting out with a 34 band. What may surprise you is that about 1/3 of our customers wear a bra band one, two or even three sizes smaller than their raw underbust measurement. What's even more interesting is that lots of these ladies carry extra weight around their mid-section.

Your band should be as snug as possible to give your bust the lift it deserves

Weight around your torso is spongy so if your bra band isn't tight enough it may just be bouncing around on your flesh and not getting close enough to your frame to keep your bra completely in place. It may sound as though it would hurt to squeeze into a bra band that is technically smaller than your body, however, the sponginess of the flesh around your ribs makes it ideal for wearing a supportive but breathable band.

Your best band fit depends so much on your body shape. If you compared 10 women with the same bra size they would differ greatly in height, body weight, physique and most flattering bra style. So many of us have fixed ideas in our heads about what bra sizes look like and in reality one bra size can be right for lots of different shapes of women. I have lots of customers who measure between 40 and 44 who wear a 36 or 38 band size. In a 40 band the bra simply isn't firm enough to lift the breasts at the front (which is after all what your band is doing).

How to tell if you need a smaller band
You can whip off your top right now (I take no responsibility if you flash a co-worker - use your discretion!) and your bra will tell you if it's the right band size or not. If the center part of your bra is lying flat between your breasts (no matter what body size, shape, type you are) then you're in the right band size. If there is any gap between your body and that center panel then you need a smaller band size. If you're concerned about trying a smaller band size I recommend investing in a pack of reusable, washable bra band extenders that gives you some extra wiggle room on a smaller band and peace of mind while you get used to your new bra fit.

Don't let your preconceptions about size keep you from finding your best bra fit. If you know you're not comfortable then consider trying a smaller band. xx

Extra Resource from XL Hourglass about bands for bigger bodies Click Here