Bra Fit: Different Bra Back Shapes

This post arose out of one of my Skype fitting appointments (thank you Ursula!). My client asked what a leotard back means and it struck me that I've never explained this aspect of bras! The way the straps and band meet at the back of your bra can affect your fit. First of all here are a couple of reminders about the anatomy of the back of a bra (image above):

1) The straps attach to the wings. The position and angle at which the straps attach to the wing determines which shape back the bra has.

2) The band is the reinforced elastic along the bottom of the bra wing that culminates in the hook and eye closure which fastens at the back.

3) The wing is normally made of a different material to the cups, usually something very strong like powernet fabric that can withstand movement and multiple wears while giving support.

A Guide to Bra Backs

1) Square Back - the band and wings cut straight across the back and the straps meet the band virtually at a right angle. On this style the straps cut across the deepest and widest part of your back which can give you more visible lines under clothing. The straps are also set farther apart on the band so the style can be tricky for women with narrow or sloping shoulders.

A band that is cut straight across your back where the straps meet the band almost at a right angle is a square back. Photo of Isis Blue from You! Lingerie

2) Leotard Back (also known as a U back) - This is the most common type of back on full bust bras because the deeper wings give more support, plus, the straps are angled to travel over a narrower part of your back and the deep U shape towards the closure reduce visible lines under clothing. The straps do not necessarily sit closer together at the front, the angling is only at the back.

A leotard back is the most common shape on full bust bras as the band lends support and shaping for heavier busts: Example is Lucy Purple

3) V Back - This is an exaggerated version of the leotard back. The straps are more acutely angled towards the closure so that they form a V shape. This is ideal for women with narrow or sloping shoulders. It should be noted though that this bring the straps close together at the front as well which some women like and others don't.

Wacoal's V back is a much loved feature of their Basic Beauty bras

4) Racer Back (also known as T or Y backs) - Racer backs are much more common on A-C cups, however, you do find them on full bust bras, especially sports bras. On regular bras this kind of back is desirable so that straps are hidden under tops with a narrow back or narrow straps. On sports bras there will be an options Racer Clip which allows you to bring the straps together into a T shape for increased stability.

Lots of full bust sports bras have a racer back option for added support (like this one from Panache Sport)

5) Strapless/Multiway/Backless - A strapless bra will usually have a deep horizontal band (similar to the style on the square back). The depth of the band is important to give support. It will have detachable straps that you can use as regular straps or as a halterneck or crisscross back depending on what you're wearing. These strap shapes are known as multiways. A backless bra for full bust women usually relies on a converter strap (like the one by Fashion Forms in the image above) which lowers the visible line of the bra farther down your back.

A strapless bra, like Evie on the left, comes with detachable straps that can be made into a crisscross or halterneck back.

I hope this guide helps you understand which backs you might need or want to get the best fit for you. Let me know in the comments section if you have any questions. xx