Monday, March 19, 2012

Don't Hate on The Tape Measure!

Over the last couple of weeks a press release about measuring for bra size has been doing the rounds. The University of Plymouth research suggests that using a tape measure leads to inaccurate bra size results, however, nowhere in any of the articles I've read does it say what measurements people were taking or what they were doing with them. It's yet another half story that does more bra harm than good!

What's the Rest of the Story?!
Maybe I agree with this research, maybe I don't but I need more info to find out. Is it suggesting that using a tape measure to find your band size then adding inches to the measurement gives you inaccurate results? If so I agree wholeheartedly. Is it suggesting that trying to find your bra size by wrapping a tape measure around your back then pulling it up through your armpits and resting on your sternum is about as effective as measuring your feet to find your hat size? Then I say Hurrah! But nowhere does it say how the tape measure is being used, it just takes a cheap shot at the humble tape measure.

I hear and read people deriding the tape measure all the time. The common retort is that getting fitted in-store is the best solution. Of course a good bra fitter is a wonderful thing to have but MILLIONS of women do not have access to a good bra fitter (working in a store doesn't automatically make you a good fitter). Not having access to a physical store does not mean you have to languish in a painful bra. With a tape measure and good bra knowledge, you're well on your way to finding your own best fit!

The Five Step Check to Fit
The recent research promotes that a 5 step approach to fit is the best way to find your size and I absolutely agree, however, I don't think this is an either or scenario - the tape measure can help you get a perfect 5 step fit a good deal faster if you use it correctly.


No matter how you get measured for a bra the Fit Check still applies. You can walk yourself through the Five Fit Checks and work out if your bra fits you.


1) All of your breast tissue must sit inside the cup. This includes the breast tissue at the sides, top and middle - it all wants to be inside the cup! If you're spilling you need a bigger cup. If the cup is baggy, you need a smaller one.

2) Your band should be snug which means it stays securely in place around your body without pinching you. If your band is too loose your bra will move causing you discomfort. If your band is too tight, it hurts!

3) The gore (the centre part at the front) needs to lie flat against your body without poking into you. If the gore doesn't lie flat it means either your band is too big or your cups are too small.

4)  Straps should not dig into your shoulders, if they do then it's likely your band is too big. Your band takes the majority of your boobs' weight so if it's not supportive enough your straps (and consequently your shoulders) end up taking the strain.

5) Your band should be horizontal with the floor all the way around your body and there should be no gaps between your body and the band (if there are your band or your cups are too big).


If you listen closely you'll hear your boobs screaming for help!
Your Bra Doesn't Fit - 
Now What?
So you've gone through the 5 fit checks and worked out that your 34C bra is not your friend. You know you need to come down in the band and up in the cup. The question remains - how many band sizes do I come down? I've fitted women who arrived in a 38D and left in a 32GG - it would take a great deal of trial and error to arrive at this final destination by yourself without a tape measure.


I am by no means suggesting that a tape measure system is 100% accurate, but used correctly it can give you a great starting point to know which sizes to begin with. Once you try on your suggested size it's then easier to use the 5 Fit Checks to work out if your size needs tweaking - "This band fits but I need a bigger cup" or "this cup fits but the band is too loose so I'll go down in the band and up in the cup to keep the same cup volume".

Stop Blaming Women and Tape Measures!
I despise the '85% of women are in the wrong bra' stat because it suggests women are to blame for being in the wrong bra and they're not - fitters and manufacturers have a lot to answer for. Lots of women have been badly fitted by 'experts', many cannot find their actual bra size in a store near them and lots of women simply are never told that bra sizes extend beyond the 32-38 A-D range.

Women have been given misleading and confusing information for decades and understanding bra fit needn't be complicated. By measuring around your ribcage and using that as your starting band size your margin for error is lessened. Measuring around the fullest part of your bust to work out your cup size is not perfect but again it's a starting point from which you can effectively use the 5 Fit Checks.

The Butterfly Collection Bra Calculator
I have debated for a long time whether we should have a Bra Calculator. The very term has become synonymous with online torture generators like the Playtex US calculator. However, I know that women are more than capable of understanding their own bra size when given the right tools and knowledge to figure it out. So after a great deal of thought, here is the Butterfly Collection Bra Calculator!

We'd love your feedback!

How is our Calculator Different?
The objective behind our calculator is to give you a good starting size from which you can work out which fit is right for you. We've added some features you don't see on other calculators:

  1. We've included results based on personal preference. Some women prefer a really tight band and some prefer a slightly looser one. We've included these size results for you too.
  2. We use the UK sizing system on our site because most of our brands are British. However, many women are used to the North American sizes so we've also included a column that shows your size translated into North American sizing for reference.

Your Help Please
I'm prepared for some backlash on this project because whenever you put something in black and white someone is going to question you laying down the law. I know this calculator won't work for everyone. It will be very inaccurate for A-C cup women because we don't sell A-C cup bras. It won't work for women who need the plus four method to offset an athletic build, protruding sternums and close-set breasts.

However, I do want to make this a useful and empowering tool for women 28-38 D-K and to do that I need your feedback. If you take a spin in our calculator please leave a comment on this blog about how the results worked out for you and what you would like to see improved, it would be a great help!

Calculators should never be used in isolation, understanding which bra styles work for you as well as which brands fit you best all contribute to getting your valuable assets into a fabulous bra that's right for you! xx

39 comments:

  1. Wow, that seems to be pretty accurate for me, thanks! I love that you translated it into your N. America size too, something I never bother to calculate but it's fun to know. :D

    I agree with you 100%. I would LOVE to be able to try on bra in-store but as a 28J that's probably never going to happen unless I make a trip to the UK or Poland. Even then I've heard it's iffy. So... fitting myself is the only option. I can't hate the measuring tape because it's best starting place for me.

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    1. Thanks for commenting June. I think it's good for every woman to have an understanding of her bra size. If you do go and get measured then you'll know if you're being put into what's available rather than what fits you. Thanks for testing the calculator! xx

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  2. Wow, it's pretty much spot-on for me! I think I have a bit more variation between brands, but that's a very individual thing.

    I find the tape measure to be a good starting point - an invaluable one to those who can't try on things in person. Thanks for putting together the calculator!

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    1. Thanks for trying out the calculator Christine. I'd love to know more about your brand size variation (you can email info@butterflycollection if you get time to send some details).

      The calculator is definitely meant just to be a starting point coupled with great knowing if a bra fits you. xx

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    2. Christine has a good point. I wonder if you could include an option (but really make it optional because I'm sure some women wouldn't know the difference without trying on bras close enough to their size) for narrow/deeper breasts vs wider/shallower breasts because at least for me (as someone with narrow, deeper breasts) certain brands tend to match much better than others.

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    3. We've been looking at 'categorizing' breast shape and bra styles to give even more accurate results. I think a version is possible it's just that assessing breast shape is so subjective. I really love what bratabase is trying to do with their breast shape database because it would shed light on how much difference your breast shape makes to fit. Watch this space ...:)

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  3. From what I can tell, this seems accurate however I am not able to purchase, or have access to the sizes suggested at the moment. I will in the future *hopefully after taxes come back* let you know. This actually does make sense though *Ive been told to wear a 34C but I know my band is right on 30*. I like the calculator, its easy to use. Now all I need to do is find bras that size, purchase one, and see how it fits.:)

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  4. Just for "fun" I quickly ran through a few online bra size calculators before using your new calculator. A few sites actually told me that I needed to adjust my measurements because I was "outside their acceptable range" (ha!) but all of them suggested between a 40DDD/DD to a 42DD. According to YOUR calculator, I'm a 36H. Now, generally I wear a 38G because I just like to have a bit more space in my band, but it's probably because of all the deep sighing I have to do whenever I go somewhere to purchase clothing and have to launch into my "No, as a matter of fact, you DON'T carry my size, thanks. And I'll tell you why..." tirade. I'll be sharing this with everyone because having a properly fitted bra is the first step towards feeling better, having your clothes fit better, and being even more confident. Thanks again Claire! Great work getting the message out there!

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    1. Thanks for trying it out Tea! Your 'deep sighing' comment really made me smile. I know all to well the retail exasperation associated with trying to find your size. Thank you for sharing this information, I really think we can change the way women feel about their bras. xx

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  5. I did have one question - the calculator gives me a (usually correct) 28GG, but says the North American size equivalent is a 28H. Wouldn't the NA size equivalent be a 28J?
    (With UK brands going D, DD, E, F, FF, G, GG, and US brands going D, DD/E, DDD/F, DDDD/G, H, I, J)

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    1. Hmmmm - can you send me your measurements Christine and I can take a look. We don't use the D, DD on the UK scale because a DD fits like a US D not a US E so that will skew things a bit but it's still off. Thanks :)

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    2. Sure - I entered 27/36. I wish the UK/US sizing differences weren't so confusing!

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    3. Definitely a glitch - thanks for catching it. It still wouldn't translate to a J because as I say, we don't equate DD with E cups we equate them to D cups. But it should still be an I cup. Well caught lady! xx

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  6. I really do think that a tape measure can still be useful, if used properly. Especially when you are doing a lot of virtual fittings. It gives a great starting point, especially for a woman who is working on her own to find her fit.

    On to the calculator.
    I love the fact that it gave a true size for me, not just one that fits the range of products you carry (or are made). It gave me a 26J, 28HH, or 24JJ. (That last one is a scary prospect!) I do wish that it allowed you to enter in a partial inch because many women will automatically round down for cupsize and up for bandsize when they should do the opposite. That one has been drilled into our heads for a while now.
    Another thing I love, the disclaimer for women up to a C up. It is important for all women to understand that it may not be the ideal source for them. The N. American size is quite nice as well, but kind of obsolete for me.

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    1. Really good point about the partial measurements, I'm sure we can work on that one. I think perhaps the North American sizing is a bit confusing - might have to change the way that appears in the results. Thanks so much for all the feedback, I'm glad the calculator was helpful for you xx

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  7. I wish every bra calculator included these kinds of disclaimers! I love that you're explicit about who your calculator is for, and who it's NOT for.

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    1. Thanks Treacle - we are so aware that one solution will never fit all. Our focus is D-K so that's the knowledge we've put into the calculator. Thanks for commenting xx

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  8. My results were spot on for what I've been trying on. 36DD or 38D. Other online sizing charts put me in a 40B and even a 40A. Those sites did "add 5". My breasts do seem to be close together so how might this affect my results? I do have a hard time getting the bridge to be perfectly flat on my breastbone. I'm guessing that means a larger cup?

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    1. Hi Tracy, the fact that your breasts are close together could account for the gore not sitting flat against your breastbone.

      I would certainly try a 36DD first as a snug band is good. Look for bras with a centre gore that isn't too tall for example this 36DD balconette bra http://www.butterflycollection.ca/sweet-nothing-bra/ and this 36DD plunge bra http://www.butterflycollection.ca/products/Glamour-Curves-Plunge-Bra-in-Gold.html both have shallow gores.

      When your breasts are close together you want something that is 'forward' forgiving - i.e. can adapt to a lot of breast tissue up front rather than at the sides or bottom of your breast. This stretch lace bra has a forgiving cup that will stretch where your boobs go http://www.butterflycollection.ca/boudoir-starlet-pink-bra/

      If you're still having a hard time getting the gore to sit flat then you're correct that you need to increase the cup size - but remember that style of bra is always going to be important to you. xx

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  9. Thank you for those examples! I love the starlet pink one! I do find that the top edges of molded cups don't lay flat on me though. I see what you mean about the gore being too tall--that's definately the issue with the bra I"m wearing, and my current favourite has much shorter wires in the center. Even though it is hard to find good selection here, I've learned a lot from your blog and don't dread bra shopping anymore. I'm not much for on line shopping, but perhaps I should give it a try now that I seem to be on the right track! And just for fun, I'm going to La Senza to try on a 40B, LOL!

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    1. When your boobs are close-set, molded bras can be tough because they don't adapt very well to your body shape. We offer free shipping throughout Canada and the US on every order to make it easier to get your hands on your correct fit (wink wink!) I'm so glad you've learned more about your boobs and feel confident going out bra shopping, that's wonderful to hear! Step away from the 40B ;) xx

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  10. I've just spent over an hour on butterflycollection.com and on this blog. When I found the online store, I was ecstatic! I'm from Canada I've ordered ill-fitting bras from the UK and US and paid $30 extra on each shipment in duty fees. When I found this blog, I cried. THANK YOU for standing up for large-chested women! I have been harassed by peers and belittled by my (small-chested) family. I no longer want a breast-reduction surgery. I will not be ashamed of my big boobs anymore.

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    1. Dear LL - Everything we've ever wanted for Butterfly just came true. Your comments mean more to me than I can express. I hope we can continue to support you in loving your body and rockin' your one of a kind figure. Sending you a huge virtual hug, Claire xx

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  11. The sizing of strapless bras may not depend on the cup size as much as a back or front closure bra.

    Ahh Bra difference

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  12. Your bra calculate was 100% accurate for me. Thank you for creating a calculate that doesn't add 4 inches to the band size.

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    1. Hi Holly - that's wonderful to hear! Thank you for testing it out. We really want to change the harmful use of +4 for D-K women, thanks for supporting us in that! xx

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  13. Stumbled across your blog while scouting for new bras (I've put off buying new ones because "I can't afford it" for so long that some of them are actually worse than just not wearing one at all, which is fairly bad!). I've had trouble with the expert fitters before - including one insisting I was a C-cup when I'd given up struggling to squeeze into a C when I was 13 - and had given up on them completely. The only positive experience I'd had was when one elderly assistant explained that, since I have exceptionally heavy breasts, even accounting for the volume, I'd be better going down a back-size from the measurement, and that changed my life.

    Aaaaaanyway, I've been mostly wearing 36EE-36F bras, and been finding them not great, so by experimentation discovered that in most 'normal sized' brands I like the 36FF. Putting my numbers into the calculator got the exact same, looking at the "prefer a tighter band" section. Haven't compared the various brands, as I've not gotten any from the second column list of brands, but will definitely be bookmarking it and referring back whenever I next want to buy bras, it's amazing it can do so well when we're encouraged to go to fitters who are little more than sales assistants with tape measures and no incentive to tell the truth.

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    1. Thank you for this lovely comment Suzie (sorry not to get back to you sooner, I got married on Sunday and am on honeymoon right now) I think bra fitters should have to take an oath similar to a doctor that says they promise not to shove customers' boobs into the wrong bra. I'm glad our calculator was a good starting point for you. Style, colour and brand are factors to consider as you start to find your perfect fit. xx

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  14. The looser suggestion, 30F, is what I usually wear (along with E) and they've seemed pretty snug. We'll see how a 28 fits tomorrow. Overall super accurate.

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    1. I'm so glad that the calculator was accurate for you Sarah - it's tough to get it right for everyone as our bodies are so unique. But it's there to be a good starting point for band size which is the literal foundation of good bra fit xx

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  15. I was directed to your calculator by other bloggers and I have to say I am impressed. I hope you do not mind but I am going to direct my own readers to it because it is quite simply the best I have found. Excellence deserves all the credit it can get.
    Susam

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    1. Thank you so much for these kind words. There is still a lot of work to be done on the calculator but I'm glad it provides a solid starting place for women on their journey to good bra fit xx

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  16. So I've just taken my measurements using the 'bend-at-a-90-degree-angle-braless' method and after tracking down several charts that I knew probably didn't use the plus-four method, I was shocked to find that my projected bra size apparently hovers somewhere around a 36G! Admittedly, my current bra is a 38DDD, which would make it's sister size... I forget, would it be DDDD or just E? Stupid American sizing!I also took it standing straight up, also braless as my current one does NOT fit, and that turned out to be a 36FF in American sizes. But I can't possibly be this size- I only turned seventeen last month! Did I do it wrong, or what? Please help!

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    1. Sorry, actually, no. I went back and my 'North American' size using the second set of measurements was 36H. Is 'North American' US sizing or not? I'm so confused!

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    2. Hi - first of all it's best to take your measurements while standing up and wearing a bra (don't worry if it doesn't fit you perfectly). The bend over measurement can be more inaccurate depending on your breast tissue.

      Whether a size is UK or North American (the same in the US and Canada) is to do with who manufacturers the bra. If a brand uses double letters like FF, GG, HH and JJ then it's a UK brand. If a brand's sizes use DDD, G, H, I and J then it's a North American brand (there are some exceptions but this is the general rule).

      I think your 36FF size sounds like your best starting size (your age has nothing to do with how big your breasts should or shouldn't be). If you are shopping American brands then you want to look for 36G bras and if you are able to find UK brands then look for 36FF bras (on our site you would search 36FF)

      You will probably need to try on a bra in your correct size range to assess whether you need a tighter band, smaller cup etc. You are addressing your bra fit at an early age which is great so don't worry about some trial and error, it's essential to find your best fit. xx

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    3. I know age doesn't really matter, I'm just concerned about how exponentially they seem to be growing. Over half the women of my family have died of breast cancer and my aunt who had gone into remission has relapsed and probably won't make it to see Christmas, so I'm just very aware of my breasts and, yeah. Thank you so much for your help and your quick response!

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    4. I'm so sorry to hear that, it's completely understandable that breast care is on your mind. As a young woman with a family history of breast cancer it's important to have an ongoing conversation with your doctor and learn how to perform a thorough breast exam on yourself. The rate at which your breasts grow is not directly linked to breast cancer but any questions or concerns you have are legitimate and your doctor will give you specific answers. In the meantime it's good practice to keep your breasts supported and cared for in correctly fitting bras. xx

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  17. Wanted to say that I just used your bra calculator after trying about 5 so far today... Yours and the Reddit subthread about bras that sent me to you are putting me at a cup size I absolutely cannot fathom. I know my things aren't fitting well and that I'm getting weird fat bits around my armpits at the top of my boobs, but I am mildly terrified to buy a bra in the DDD-G range and have it not fit! Especially as I have been in VS bras for years and don't consider myself big-breasted. I'm getting sizes from 32DDD (Target) to 32G (your calculator) and I've been in a ill-fitting 36C for years now.

    But- I'm gonna do it. And I will come back and share my results.

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    1. Hi Michelle, you're not alone in finding it daunting to change bra size. The important thing to know is that the cup letter means nothing without the band size. A C cup can be way bigger in volume than an F cup, it depends on what the band sizes are. Your 36C bras are roughly the same volume as a 34D, 32E, 30F and 28FF so you see that the letter is really not something to worry about. I recommend you try our size consultation as well as the calculator as it can give more personalized information. Your dress size, height and how your current 36Cs fit all affect which size you should try as an alternative.

      http://www.butterflycollection.ca/free-bra-size-consultation/

      It sounds like you have migrated breast tissue at the armpit (boob that should live inside the cup but has been forced outside due to ill fitting bras). I would imagine your current bras move around and you possibly have some spillage. A size consultation will help narrow down your size more accurately xx

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