How to Tailor Your Bra fit with Accessories

In an ideal world bras would fit us perfectly from the first time we put them on. In reality many of us need to tailor our bra fit by using accessories or by making minor alterations so that we get a fit that's right for our bodies. Bras fit so close to your body and have to do such a specific job that there's less room for error which is why it's a good idea to know which accessories are out there to help you get the best fit.

You can find bra extenders that are 1 hook to 10 hooks deep

Bra Extenders
These are easily the most popular and convenient accessory we sell. A bra extender gives you more band length by hooking some extra fabric to your band at the hook and eye fastening (extenders are readily available in 1, 2, 3 and 4 rows of hooks to suit different bras). Having a little more band length is particularly useful when you're breaking in a bra.

Shown here in a contrasting colour for effect, you can buy extenders that closely match your bra tone

Rather than buying a 34 band that fits but could quickly stretch out on your 33 ribcage, using a bra extender on a 32 band gives you the wiggle room of a 34. Once the band has stretched a little (new bras stretch in the first 3 weeks) then you can remove the extender and wear your 32 band in total comfort. This isn't just comfortable it also prolongs the length of time you can wear a bra before it stretches out completely.

An adjustable strap holder like this is looped through your straps to give you more security.

Bra Strap Holders
This accessory holds your straps together so that they don't slip off your shoulders. The most common cause of straps falling off your shoulders is your band being too big. However, some women have such narrow or sloping shoulders that they find most conventional styles to have straps set too far apart.

Stretchy bra strap holders move with you so that you have a more flexible fit.

Bra strap holders come in lots of different styles from plastic discs that make your bra into a racer back to the elastic ones we carry that stretch with you as you move so you don't feel constricted.

Straps Pads give you some extra cushioning between your shoulders and your straps

Bra Strap Pads
If you're a regular reader then you should know by now that if your straps dig into your shoulders then you should check that your band isn't too big. When your band is too big it stops doing the work to support your breasts and the weight gets transferred to your straps which begin to dig into your shoulders.

For women with very heavy breasts or sensitive shoulders (trapped nerves for example) strap pads are great.

Having said that, some women have extremely heavy breasts and no matter how fitted your band is a lot of weight still rests on your straps. Other women have sensitive nerves in their necks and shoulders and find that some extra cushioning makes them much more comfortable. Bra strap pads attach to your straps and sit underneath them to give you some extra comfort.

Related Article: Top 3 bra alterations for tailoring your bra fit

There are lots of other bra accessories out there like pads and cookies to slip into one cup to even out cup size and bra liners that sit between you and your bra band to stop the irritation of sweat. If you have an issue that you find happens with every bra you try on then it's worth contacting our support team to see if there an accessory or style suggestion that could transform your fit xx

Why Some Bras Squeak

Some women will be only too aware of the frustration of a squeaky bra and lots of you will never have encountered one. For those of you who are plagued by the squeaky bra I'm going to explain why it happens and what you can do to stop the squeak.

The squeaking is caused by the underwire rubbing against the the tube of material it is sewn inside when you move around. The material tube has been pulled too tightly and has come into contact with the wire which causes friction and squeaks.

In a perfectly fitting bra the wire and it's material tube housing don't come into close contact, or at least not under a lot of tension. The reason the material tube is pulled tightly against the wire is to do with the shape of your torso and the shape of the bra wires.

Rounded Torso
If you have a round torso then you need a bra with wires that can wrap around the shape of your body. Most bra wires are pretty flat but flexible enough to accommodate the curve of an average torso. If your torso is more curved than your wires can accommodate then the material around the wires gets pulled extra tight as the wires are under more pressure to curve further than they're designed for.

Narrow Torso
If you try on a bra that is expecting to lie relatively flat against about 14 inches of torso but you have a narrow torso (again, most likely you have a round torso) then the wire are having to wrap around your body sooner and more dramatically than they were expecting. This causes the material tube to get over stretched, come into contact with the wires and squeak.

This is why some women regularly find their bras squeak and some women never experience it. Don't despair though ladies there is lots you can learn about the squeak so you can banish it from your life. Here are my top tips for getting rid of the squeak:

1) Look for styles with narrower wires (and/or more flexible wires) - the less wire that has to bend around your torso the less likely you are to hear the squeak.

2) If you love a bra but find it squeaks then you can try one band size up and one cup size down (assuming the cup volume was right for you on the squeaky bra). If this compromises your lift or band support too much then it's not a viable solution but sometimes this will alleviate the squeaky problem.

3) Spend some time with your new squeaky bra to curve the wires so that they are shaped more like your torso. Bra wires are tough so you can get yourself a tennis ball and start to mold the wires to be more curved.

4) New bras are very rigid so you might find that after soaking it for 20 minutes and letting it air dry that the squeak is lessened. It's still going to take a few wears to mold the bra to your shape and the squeak will happen until the bra forms to your body more.

It's best if you can find bras that don't squeak to begin with (and this means finding brands and styles that suit your torso shape). However, if you fall in love with a squeaky bra then bending the wires, softening the material and breaking it in a little could be rewarded with months of squeak-free wearing. If you need help figuring out your size or shape then our free size consultations are a great place to start xx

Don't Tell Me I Should Hate my Breasts!

Last week there was an article in The Hufffington Post (originally posted on Literally, Darling) that really irritated me. The two authors were bemoaning the problems and effects of growing and having larger breasts. This is a subject that is very real and many women with large breasts will feel some empathy with what the writers have to say. What bugs me is that the article (and many others like it) assume that ALL large breasted women are unhappy, in pain and lack confidence. What a load of rubbish! Besides being a happy, large busted woman I also know many women who are very happy and comfortable in their large breasts. The article in the Huffington Post implied that women like me are almost deluded because happiness, confidence and comfort simply don't apply to busty women.

There are a few stereotypes that get trotted out in articles about large breasts and I think we need to start taking them with a huge pinch of salt because they undermine the goal of stomping out big boob stereotypes. I want to address a few things written in the article:

"They (big boobs) dominate your whole life"
When you understand which sizes and styles of bras are right for your breasts many women can get on with their busy and varied lives without thinking about their breasts. My 32GG bust does not weigh on my mind when I'm working out in my Enell sports bra, they don't bug me when I'm out for dinner in my Idina plunge, and they behave themselves all day in my array of full coverage and balconette bras. They don't dominate my life because I have learned how to support and dress them in a way that makes me comfortable and happy.

"...and attempting to get guys to look above our chin when they talked to us."
There is a social assumption that every male is looking at big boobs with lecherous intent. Not only is this not true it also doesn't apply solely to big boobs. Those males who are only capable of looking at a woman's chest will do so whether you've got a little or a lot of boob, the problem lies with the man and not the cup size. This generalization also does a disservice to all the men who respect women, are interested in their thoughts and actions just as much (if not more) than how they look. This point is a whole other post but sufficed to say many people, men and women, are looking us in the face and we shouldn't dismiss them along with the stereotype.

"the giant girls sag from the sheer weight and flip-flop about in pretty much the least sexy way possible. Not a great visual, right?"
So much about this bothers me. Who the hell decides what's sexy? My breasts don't stay up by themselves, they haven't for years, they move about when not supported and not only do I feel sexy in my body I happen to love the natural shape and movement of my breasts so how dare you tell me it's not a great visual!

"Remember that we are just as insecure with ourselves as women who only need a camisole. We carry our own (very heavy) insecurities every day, too. Like everyone else, we learn how to cope with our own body image issues. You either hide behind giant clothing and pretend your breasts aren't the first thing anyone sees, or you learn to break the ice, make the first joke and just acknowledge the elephant(s) in the room. Because if you don't, someone else will."

Aghghghghgghgh!!!! Firstly, not every woman feels daily insecurities about her body and they're not delusional narcissists, they are women who have other priorities, have a self-confidence they can rely on and women who have dispensed with being told to feel insecure.

You absolutely have more options than wearing baggy clothing or self-deprecating humour. Your breasts are not 'elephants' that need to be belittled in order to make other people feel better. You are the sum of many parts and your breasts are only one part and to the people in this world who truly care for you, you will never have to justify or hide this part of you.

I know that for a long time to come we will continue to see articles like this which only serve to keep busty women in a vicious cycle of self-loathing and fear. As you know a huge part of what we do at Butterfly Collection is build knowledge and confidence as well as your bra drawer so please don't feel like you should feel embarrassed or ashamed about your bust simply because you're busty, it's a load of nonsense!! xx

Bras Good for Short Torsos

Bra wires are a crucial part of keeping heavy breasts close to your body so that they don't bounce. The length of a bra's wire makes a big difference to a woman's comfort. If you have tall breasts then you might find that your breast tissue hangs over a short wire which is uncomfortable. Alternatively, if you don't have a lot of breast tissue near the armpit then a long wire can poke uncomfortably into your armpit.

It's a fine line for bra manufacturers to create wire lengths and shapes that are long enough to give coverage and support, but short enough to accommodate different torso lengths. In reality, not every bra will fit you and if you have a short torso (or high set breasts) it's important to find out which bras have shorter wires and side wings so that they don't poke you. Here are some of our top picks for short torso friendly bras:

1. Claudette Dessous
This modern-day classic has a semi-teardrop shaped cup and shallow wing that makes it ideal for women with short torsos. I have always adored the deep V neckline and of course the apologetically bold colour-ways.

2. Elomi Eva
This is a new addition to our store which we chose because of its short torso friendliness. The wires are deliberately shorter than other Elomi styles so that they don't come up too high into the armpit. I love that the cups are smooth like a molded cup but have the side wing and seaming of a 4 part bra to give more lift and shape. The straps are closer together too which is a feature lots of petite women need.

3. Freya Gem
Whether you're short or tall, heavy busted or not you can have a short torso. This is why Gem is such a great option. Ranging from 28-38 bands up to a K cup this style gives lots of women a balconette option with a shorter wing.

4. Panache Envy
This latest basic from Panache is in response to a request for shorter wires. I love the shape and support of 4-part cups, especially for heavy busts. This bra gives a good balance between support for weight and volume and a shorter wing for comfort.

 

If you have your size right (the band is firm and the cups aren't gaping or spilling) but still find that your bra is poking you in the armpit then I highly recommend trying styles that are shorter in the wing xx

2 Useful Things To Do During Breast Cancer Awareness Month

Tomorrow is the beginning of Breast Cancer Awareness Month (BCAM). Before the tidal wave of pink starts crashing over your inbox and social media I wanted to remind you to be a conscientious BCAM supporter. There are some things to avoid and two really useful things you can do.

"The Coolest Breast Cancer Awareness Products". Really? Cool?

What to Avoid
I have had a slew of emails from PR companies asking me to promote various products that will make a small donation to Breast Cancer Research when you buy their pink-themed merchandise. Included in this list; shampoo and conditioners that include chemicals linked to breast cancer rates, alcohol and make up. The irony is far from funny. Another email opened with "The Coolest Breast Cancer Awareness Products". Really? Cool? I very rarely put a finite line in the sand but it is never OK to trivialize breast cancer with trite marketing drivel trying to make a quick buck off the back of a terrible disease.

If you buy a pink product in support of BCAM be sure to check how much of the proceeds go to Cancer Research, which organization it goes to and ask yourself whether this product is contributing to toxic chemicals in our consumer environment.

There are two effective things you can do this month (and any month for that matter) that will make a direct difference to fighting breast cancer. 

1) Make a donation DIRECTLY to Breast Cancer Research. If only 20 cents of the price of a pink product ends up going to Cancer Research then a donation of $1 directly to the researchers is five times more effective.

• Canada - Canadian Breast Cancer Foundation
• US - American Cancer Society

2) Learn something about spotting the signs and symptoms of breast cancer. I know this can be a daunting task but knowledge is a really powerful tool. You can speak to your doctor about how to monitor your breast health or you can read our post with useful resources about breast health and monitoring.

I firmly believe that Breast Cancer Awareness Month is an important endeavour that reminds us to be vigilant and knowledgeable about our breast health. We must remember that the goal is to eliminate this disease not to maximize the profit potential for retailers so please, think before you pink xx

Breast Roots and Bra Fit

Your breast root refers to the size and shape of the area where your breasts attach to your body. Just to clarify, this isn't to do with the shape of your breasts, which may be shallow, or full or long etc. It's a part of bra fitting that helps you work out which cup wires work for you. There are two measurements to consider when talking about breast roots; your breast root width and your breast root height.

Assessing Your Wire Width
There are, broadly speaking, three breast root widths; average, narrow and wide. The width of your breast root is linked to which width, or shape, of bra wire will work best with your breasts. Your bra wire must never rest on your breast tissue and ideally you don't want it to run very wide of the outside of your breasts (although some gap between your breast root and the bra wire is not terribly detrimental to your fit).

Think of the bottom of your breast root (the area of your breast that attaches to your body underneath your breast) as a smile. You can have a broad, flat smile or you can have a deep, curved smile and you want a bra that has a matching shape to your breast root. By understanding the width of your breast root you can diagnose if a bra wire is too wide or narrow for you when you put it on.

If your bra wire rests on your breast tissue then your first step is to check that your cup volume is large enough. Try a larger cup first and if that doesn't work then the wire shape could be too narrow for the width of your breast root so this isn't a style for you.

If your bra wire goes a long way past your breast root (most commonly this is when there is lots of empty cup around the side of your body, under your armpit) then you can try a cup volume smaller but it's most likely that the wires of the cup are too wide for you and this isn't the bra for you.

Breast Root Height
On average full bust women find that their breast root is between 5 and 7 inches lower than their armpit. If the distance between your breast root base and your armpit is less than 5 inches you often find that bra wires poke into your armpit. If this is the case for you then you have high set breasts and will benefit from bras with short wires that don't rise as high into your armpit.

Fit Point: If you find that you often get empty cup at the bottom of your bra then it could be because your wires are too long for your high set breasts. Look for bras with shorter wires.

If your breast root is farther down your body than 7 inches you can experience spilling at the sides of your bra no matter which size you try. You need tall bras with long wires that run equal to (or higher than) the side of your breasts.

Help Finding the Right Wire
Bratabase is a fantastic resource for finding out whether a bra has long or short wires and how other women have found the fit based on their own breast root width and height.

At Butterfly Collection we include the side height of each bra (the side compromises of the wing and wire) on the product page to help you work out whether the length of the wire is right for your breast root height.

I hope this helps you work out if your bra fit frustrations are being caused by a mismatch between your breast root and wire xx

What Are Shallow Breasts?

You may have read the term 'shallow breasts' but be unsure what it means or if you have them. Lots of women with shallow breasts will look like they have smaller breasts than they actually do which can make finding your size quite tricky. Here are some of the features of shallow breasts:

1) Your breast tissue starts high on your chest (at your collarbone in some cases).

2) Even though your breast tissue extends over a long and/or wide area of your chest it isn't very full so doesn't protrude very far forward.

3) You find that you can't fill the horizontal depth of lots of cups but at the same time the top of the cup cuts into you and gives you quadraboob.

If these three things describe your breasts then you probably have shallow breasts. This means that your breast tissue volume is spread out over a larger area but doesn't have a lot of horizontal depth which makes it hard to fill out a lot of bra cup shapes.

Shallow breasts come in the following combinations:
* Evenly spaced shallow breasts with a narrow root (so you need narrow wires with a shallow friendly cup and medium to wide gore)

* Wide spaced shallow breasts with a narrow root (so you need narrow wires with a shallow friendly cup and wide gore) 

* Close set shallow breasts with a narrow root (so you need narrow wires with a shallow friendly cup and narrow gore - you may need to add inches to your band size) 

* Evenly spaced shallow breasts with a wide root (so you need wide wires with a shallow friendly cup and medium to wide gore) 

* Wide spaced shallow breasts with a wide root (so you need wide wires with a shallow friendly cup and wide gore)

* Close set shallow breasts with a wide root (so you need wide wires with a shallow friendly cup and narrow gore)

This gallery of shallow breasts from Venusian Glow is really useful for illustrating what shallow breasts look like. (Warning: Some images are not safe for work).

Style Features for Shallow Breasts
Shallow breasts often need the height of a larger cup without the forward projection and roundness of lots of styles. The cups shape is everything for women with shallow breasts to find their best size and fit.

Shallow breasts require support and fullness at the bottom and a tall cup (so that the edges don't dig into the soft upper breast tissue) that doesn't have a lot of curvature to it. Some teardrop shapes work well with shallow breasts. Lots of women also find that true balconette styles (like Medina) with vertical seams work well because the fullest part of the bust sits in the cup then the upper soft tissue isn't bisected by the cup. Stretch lace is a great friend to shallow breasts because it doesn't bisect the tissue and gives a smooth look.

It's common for women with shallow breasts to have tried multiple different sizes but may have missed trying on cup shapes that work with their breasts. It's worth trying a size you've tried before in a shallow-friendly cup shape.

Shallow Friendly Bras

Lucy works for medium to close-set shallow breasts

Claudette Dessous range is a phenomenal choice for shallow medium to wide root breasts

Idina Plunge has a stretch cup that is great for wide root shallow breasts average to narrow set

Andorra is a stretch lace bra good for wide, shallow breasts

Diversity in Lingerie - Diversity in Life

On Tuesday August 21st 2013 June, from Braless in Brasil, launched a campaign called #DiversityinLingerie. Posting a picture of herself in her beautiful post-babies--over 30--a life fully led--stretch marks--and--skin glory June reminds us that we don't see enough physical diversity in lingerie. This means lingerie brands, catwalk shows and retailers don't use a diverse range of models to promote and demonstrate their styles which means millions of women are not represented in an industry for women. We are gradually seeing more plus size models as part of mainstream lingerie marketing but what about women of colour, varying abilities, gender, stretch marks/scars, tattoos, amputees, heights?

I'm not qualified to speak on most of these subjects, however, trail blazers like The Lingerie Addict and The Lingerie Lesbian are creating forums in which women can learn, empathize and be empowered. By challenging preconceptions and highlighting pioneering brands like Kiss Me Deadly and Chrysalis Lingerie, these bloggers aim to make diversity in lingerie a reality. This is not going to be an overnight achievement and from consumer expectations to marketing execution there is a long way to go to bring about true diversity in lingerie promotion.

I wanted to contribute to this conversation about what Diversity in Lingerie means to me. My primary interest as both a bra fitter and blogger is understanding a busty woman's relationship with her body/breasts and giving her the knowledge to feel confident, beautiful and peaceful. What I've come to know is that the diversity of women's relationships with lingerie is vast. How women identify with lingerie, how they use it, what they want from it, how it makes them feel, these are the diversities that I am keenly focused on. 

I am 100% behind the purpose to encourage more physical representation and diversity in lingerie promotion. I would add to this that I would love to see more diversity in the portrayal of women's relationships with lingerie (I elaborated on this in a recent article for The Lingerie Addict). The majority of advertising and marketing we see around lingerie positions it as a delicacy, a thing to be enjoyed in isolation, but lingerie is for life! Lingerie is not an option for some, it's essential for many women to lead their lives confidently and comfortably.

I would love to see a greater diversity in the portrayal of life in lingerie. Here of some of my clients' relationships with lingerie:
1) Roller Derby girls who want bold patterns in designs that can withstand extreme sports.
2) Post-surgery women (some of whom are facing months of recovery) who want more sizes and variation in post operative bras.
3) Nursing Moms who are learning how to fend off social commentary, gain confidence in their new role and body as well as physically manage the rigors of breastfeeding.
4) Professional sports women who are defying the big boob stereotypes and sexism they encounter to pursue their profession with breast support and confidence.
5) Emergency workers who need extreme support during their days but want the diversity of colour and design that lesser impact bras take for granted.
6) Women over 75 with heavy busts whose bone density has changed considerably. Their desire for elegant and beautiful lingerie has not changed but the design and support of their bras is very different from a 22 year old's.

The #DiversityinLingerie campaign is insightful, powerful and inspiring and I hope you take time to read some, if not all, of these posts. Women are as diverse in nature and purpose as we are in looks and physicality. Our diversity is fascinating and beautiful and we can learn a great deal from it. xx

Braless in Brasil
The Breast Life
The Lingerie Addict
Thin and Curvy
Bras and Body Image
Les Gros Bonnets
Wide Curves
Fussy Busty
Under the Unders
Kurvendiskussionen
Curvy Wordy
The Absurd Curvy Nerd
The Full Figured Chest
Muscular Hourglass

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Posts that are live:
Braless in Brasil
Les Gros Bonnet
Wide Curves
By Baby's Rules
Kurvendiskussionen
The Full Figured Chest
Curvy Wordy
Under the Unders
Muscular Hourglass
The Absurd Curvy Nerd
The Lingerie Addict
Bras and Body Image
Thin and Curvy
Anytime Yoga
Pretty Big Bras - See more at: http://www.bralessinbrasil.com/2013/08/diversityinlingerie.html#sthash.6eag3Rfd.dpuf

How Torso Shape Affects Bra Fit

Your rib cage shape can make a big difference to your bra fit. Regardless of your dress size the dimensions of your torso can alter which kinds of bras fit you best. Here is a simple guide to some of the variations in rib cage shape and how they affect bra fit.

Straight
This is the most common torso shape and not to be confused with whether your overall figure is straight or curvy. On a straight torso your bra will sit evenly across all the hooks at the back. If you have a straight and narrow torso then look for bras with narrow wires.

If you have a straight and wide torso and your breasts are wide across your body then you probably need bras with wide wires. If you have a wide, straight torso (often referred to as a broad back) and your breasts are close set or narrow then you may need to add inches to your band size and reduce your cup letter.

Flared
When your rib cage is dramatically smaller at the underbust than the overbust measurement it can affect the way your bra sits. Lots of women find bras with fewer hooks at the back (2 rather than 3 or 4) sit better. It's quite possible that you need to go up a band size to accommodate the widening of your rib cage across the wider part of your rib cage. A common alteration for flared rib cages is to bend the wires under the armpit away from the body.

Rounded
Often referred to as barrel chests, this rounding of the ribcage means that you need a lot of band and potentially not a lot of cup so you may need to add inches to your band for comfort. This also works for women with curved spines due to health or posture issues. If you have a narrow and round torso then you will most likely need narrow wires which can accommodate a lot of bust in a small width.

If you have a wide, round torso then you'll need to asses whether your breasts need wide or narrow wires. Again you might need to add inches to the band but this also depends largely on whether you have a squidgy torso. A lot of women with rounded torsos find that they need to bend their wires both around the ribs and away from the sternum so that the wires follow the curvature of their rib cage.

It's important to remember that no one piece of bra information is gospel, so many other factors can affect your fit but this is a general guide to understanding how the shape and contours of your torso can change your bra fit. xx

Bra Fit and Digestive Issues

Digestive image courtesy of DocStoc

Thousands of women suffer from digestive issues. Conditions including food allergies, acid reflux, and irritable bowel syndrome can be exacerbated by your bra fit. As these digestive issues are so common I wanted to explain the causes and the solutions I recommend for my clients.

The Right Band
The band of your bra passes directly around your stomach and upper duodenum (the beginning of your small intestine responsible for breaking down food). The pressure from your band can cause your digestive issue to flare up. It's tempting to think that the only solution is to wear a looser band, but that may not be your only solution.

Profile Perfect is a bandless bra as there is no material below the wire

It's a good idea to wear the loosest band size you can without compromising your fit, but wearing a band that is too loose will cause other issues so don't go too loose. Look for bandless bras; these are bras that don't have an extra strip of fabric below the wires. Minimizing how much fabric goes around your body will reduce the area of pressure on your digestive system. This simple style alteration can make a big difference to some sufferers.

The Right Gore
Your gore puts pressure on your sternum (or breast bone) which in turn can put pressure on your esophagus (the organ through which your food travels to your stomach). To relieve the pressure on your esophagus you can also try a looser band, however, it's also worth experimenting with different gore heights.

A lower gore, like this one on Idina can relieve digestive discomfort for some women

Some women find that wearing a short gore (like plunge styles) relieves the pressure on their esophagus. Other women find that wearing a tall gore spreads the pressure over a larger area and that is more comfortable. It's also possible to bend the wires at your gore away from the body so that the pressure is relieved (this requires a bit of effort but is very effective).

Wirefree Bras
You condition may be such that any wire pressure is going to aggrivate your condition so you need to wear a wire free bra. Wirefree styles can be hard to find in GG+ cups but you can find nursing bras that will give you support without wires. You will have a different shape without the wires but the benefit to your health is worth it.

Medical Attention
If you try different bra styles and sizes and still have unmanageable digestive issues you must seek medical attention.

I hope these tips can help you find a more comfortable fit so that your bra support isn't at the expense of your digestive comfort! xx

What You Must Do Before You Can Tell if a Bra Fits

There are three things you should do when you put on a brand new bra BEFORE you can accurately tell if that bra fits you. If you have been wearing a badly fitting bra for a long time then a well-fitting new bra can feel very alien. Here are three things to do before you can tell if a brand new bra fits:

1. The Hooks
When you put on a new bra it MUST fit comfortably and firmly on the loosest set of hooks (number 1 in the picture above). This is essential if you want to get your money's worth out of the bra. Every bra stretches out over time because elastic is perishable so your body heat will continue to stretch out the bra until it is too big for you in the band. By starting on the loosest hooks it ensures that you can switch the tighter hooks as the band stretches.

2. The Straps
You must adjust the straps when you put on a brand new bra. If the straps are too short the whole bra will feel very tight and awkward. If the straps are too long then the cups will bag and gape at the front. Adjust the straps so that they are proportional to your torso length. If you have one breast smaller than the other you will need to shorten the strap on your smaller side to even out your cup fit.

3. Scoop Your Boobs
A well-fitting bra should be snug to your body so it's important to ensure you don't have any breast tissue trapped between your wires and your body. Always use the opposite hand to breast (so right hand scoops left breast) and reach inside your cup and lift your breast up from the bottom of your cup then release it. Scoop the tissue away from the side of your bra then release. Finally, smooth your breast tissue AWAY from the centre gore ensuring that your nipple falls in a natural position.

Now that you have done these three things you will be able to assess whether your brand new bra is right for you in the band and cups. xx

Bra Fit: Different Bra Back Shapes

This post arose out of one of my Skype fitting appointments (thank you Ursula!). My client asked what a leotard back means and it struck me that I've never explained this aspect of bras! The way the straps and band meet at the back of your bra can affect your fit. First of all here are a couple of reminders about the anatomy of the back of a bra (image above):

1) The straps attach to the wings. The position and angle at which the straps attach to the wing determines which shape back the bra has.

2) The band is the reinforced elastic along the bottom of the bra wing that culminates in the hook and eye closure which fastens at the back.

3) The wing is normally made of a different material to the cups, usually something very strong like powernet fabric that can withstand movement and multiple wears while giving support.

A Guide to Bra Backs

1) Square Back - the band and wings cut straight across the back and the straps meet the band virtually at a right angle. On this style the straps cut across the deepest and widest part of your back which can give you more visible lines under clothing. The straps are also set farther apart on the band so the style can be tricky for women with narrow or sloping shoulders.

A band that is cut straight across your back where the straps meet the band almost at a right angle is a square back. Photo of Isis Blue from You! Lingerie

2) Leotard Back (also known as a U back) - This is the most common type of back on full bust bras because the deeper wings give more support, plus, the straps are angled to travel over a narrower part of your back and the deep U shape towards the closure reduce visible lines under clothing. The straps do not necessarily sit closer together at the front, the angling is only at the back.

A leotard back is the most common shape on full bust bras as the band lends support and shaping for heavier busts: Example is Lucy Purple

3) V Back - This is an exaggerated version of the leotard back. The straps are more acutely angled towards the closure so that they form a V shape. This is ideal for women with narrow or sloping shoulders. It should be noted though that this bring the straps close together at the front as well which some women like and others don't.

Wacoal's V back is a much loved feature of their Basic Beauty bras

4) Racer Back (also known as T or Y backs) - Racer backs are much more common on A-C cups, however, you do find them on full bust bras, especially sports bras. On regular bras this kind of back is desirable so that straps are hidden under tops with a narrow back or narrow straps. On sports bras there will be an options Racer Clip which allows you to bring the straps together into a T shape for increased stability.

Lots of full bust sports bras have a racer back option for added support (like this one from Panache Sport)

5) Strapless/Multiway/Backless - A strapless bra will usually have a deep horizontal band (similar to the style on the square back). The depth of the band is important to give support. It will have detachable straps that you can use as regular straps or as a halterneck or crisscross back depending on what you're wearing. These strap shapes are known as multiways. A backless bra for full bust women usually relies on a converter strap (like the one by Fashion Forms in the image above) which lowers the visible line of the bra farther down your back.

A strapless bra, like Evie on the left, comes with detachable straps that can be made into a crisscross or halterneck back.

I hope this guide helps you understand which backs you might need or want to get the best fit for you. Let me know in the comments section if you have any questions. xx

Online Bra Consultation: Top 5 Fit Issues

We've been doing online bra consultations for over two years. It is one of our most popular services probably because it's fast, free and it doesn't matter where you live you can find out more about your bra fit. I created this service because it was an easy way to get bra and breast knowledge to lots of women and I believe understanding your own breasts is liberating.

The consultation is a simple form that is filled out with a couple of measurements as well as details about which bra you're currently wearing, your height, dress size and bra issues. From this basic information we put together a profile of the size range that would be best for you as well as styles that would suit your shape best. There are some fit and size issues that come up time and time again.

Lucy is our busiest online consultant and has done almost 1000 online consultations! She compiled a list of the top 5 fit issues she sees most often in the online consultations:

1) Over 80% of women who listed Victoria's Secret as their most comfortable bra cited their band rides up.

2) Most women whose straps are digging in are wearing a band that is too big for them and don't realize that that's the reason their straps dig in.

3) Lots of women feel wires poking in their armpit but it's most common in women under 5ft 4"

4) Over half of the women we do consultations for measure between 24 and 31 inches around their ribcage.

5)  Besides wearing a band that's too big the most common cause of straps slipping off is wearing a cup that is too small.

You might feel like you're alone in your bra frustrations but you'd be amazed how many women are experiencing the same bra frustrations as you. Learning about better bra fit can take a while and it's a lot of information to take in especially if you learn that you need a cup size you've never heard of and a brand not available at your local department store. I wanted the bra size consultations to be an easy introduction to better understand your bra fit. Lots of our clients tell us that it was the beginning of their journey to better bra fit which makes me super happy! xx