Online Bra Consultation: Top 5 Fit Issues

We've been doing online bra consultations for over two years. It is one of our most popular services probably because it's fast, free and it doesn't matter where you live you can find out more about your bra fit. I created this service because it was an easy way to get bra and breast knowledge to lots of women and I believe understanding your own breasts is liberating.

The consultation is a simple form that is filled out with a couple of measurements as well as details about which bra you're currently wearing, your height, dress size and bra issues. From this basic information we put together a profile of the size range that would be best for you as well as styles that would suit your shape best. There are some fit and size issues that come up time and time again.

Lucy is our busiest online consultant and has done almost 1000 online consultations! She compiled a list of the top 5 fit issues she sees most often in the online consultations:

1) Over 80% of women who listed Victoria's Secret as their most comfortable bra cited their band rides up.

2) Most women whose straps are digging in are wearing a band that is too big for them and don't realize that that's the reason their straps dig in.

3) Lots of women feel wires poking in their armpit but it's most common in women under 5ft 4"

4) Over half of the women we do consultations for measure between 24 and 31 inches around their ribcage.

5)  Besides wearing a band that's too big the most common cause of straps slipping off is wearing a cup that is too small.

You might feel like you're alone in your bra frustrations but you'd be amazed how many women are experiencing the same bra frustrations as you. Learning about better bra fit can take a while and it's a lot of information to take in especially if you learn that you need a cup size you've never heard of and a brand not available at your local department store. I wanted the bra size consultations to be an easy introduction to better understand your bra fit. Lots of our clients tell us that it was the beginning of their journey to better bra fit which makes me super happy! xx

What Sister Size Bras Look Like

From top to bottom these bras have the same cup volume: 38E, 36F, 34FF, 32G, 30GG, 28H

The relationship between band sizes and cup sizes is something I explain most frequently. The common misconception is that all cup letters are the same size of boob on different band lengths. So, for example, people assume that all women with F cup boobs have the same size boobs regardless of whether they're a 30F or a 40F and this simply isn't true. A lady with 40F boobs is actually five cup volumes bigger than the 30F lady and that's because when the band size gets bigger it increases the volume of the cups.  

Sister Sizes is a phrase that refers to bras that all share the same cup volume but have different band lengths. For example, a 34E and a 32F are sister sizes because when you go one band size down from a 34 to a 32 you have to balance the size by going up one cup from an E to an F cup to keep the cup volume the same. 

Click Here to read why all D cups aren't the same and Click Here to read why cup volumes increase as the band increases.

These bras all have the same cup volume spread out over different length bands. From top down: 28H, 30GG, 32G, 34FF, 36F, 38E

Because a picture speaks a thousand words I wanted to show you what sister sizes look like and how the proportions change. In the picture above the six bras shown are the following sizes from top to bottom: 28H, 30GG, 32G, 34FF, 36F, 38E.  All of these bras have the same cup volume, however, their band lengths and proportions are different.

You can see that the band on the 38E at the bottom is the longest band so the woman who wears this bra needs her band to go around more torso than the woman who would wear the 28H bra at the top which has the shortest band. Proportionally the 38E lady will look like she has a smaller bust because her bust volume is spread out over a wider torso. The 28H lady will look like she has a larger bust because her breast volume projects further forward on a narrower torso. In reality they have the same volume of boob but it is spread out over different areas of chest/torso.

From top to bottom these bras have the same cup volume: 38E, 36F, 34FF, 32G, 30GG, 28H

The Proportions 
While the picture above is helpful to show that the cup volume on these sister sizes is the same what it can't show very well is how the proportions differ. You can see that the bands on the 30GG and 28H (bottom two bras) are deeper and have more hooks than the other sizes. This is because the volume of a 30GG and 28H bust projects farther forward than the volume of a 38E bust (which is spread out over a wider area so doesn't project as far forward) so the band has to be stronger to counteract the projection at the front.

Besides the deeper band and more hooks you may also be able to see that the wings are darker on the 28 and 30 bands than the 38-32 bands and this is because it's double layered to give more support. The wing has to be reinforced as there is less length to disperse the weight of the breasts over. The longer the band the greater the area the weight of the breasts can be dispersed over. This is the reason longer bands don't need to be as deep or firm as the shorter bands.

The proportions of the bras differ in the following ways (you'll notice that the gore width decreases as the band length shortens and this is because the breast volume is gradually narrowing in width and increasing in projection).

	Band Length	Wing with Hooks Length	Wing with Eyes Length	Wing Depth	Gore Width
38E	29”	6.25”	8.25”	4.5”	1”
36F	28”	6”	8”	4.5”	1”
34FF	26.5”	5”	7”	4.5”	3/4”
32G	24.5”	4”	6.25”	4.75”	3/4”
30GG	23.75”	4”	6”	4.75”	5/8”
28H	22.5”	3.5”	5.25”	5.25”	5/8”

  
Bra Science Vs Bra Reality
I wanted to explain this bit of bra science to further help you understand why cup sizes mean nothing without knowing the band size. In reality good bra fit is affected by things like brand, body shape, age, height and bra style. It's great to know the principles of bra science but remember that when a bra fits you well and you are comfortable that's the most important thing. Leave a comment if you need something explaining more xx

N.B: The bra used in these diagrams is Tango Beige from Panache Superbra

5 Things To Look For In A Bra Band

Your bra band is the beginning of great bra fit. In my opinion it is the most important part of your bra and it's a good idea to know how bra bands differ so you can work out what's right for you. The band is so important because it is the part of your bra that should take the majority of your bust's weight (it can only do this by being snug). Because it is the biggest part of your bra to make contact with your body it can disperse the weight of your bust over a greater area (if your band is loose the whole weight rests on your straps which is painful). The more the weight is dispersed, the more comfortable you'll be.

Banded bras have material below the wire/seam of the cup like on Medina

Banded Bras
Pros: A Banded Bra has a piece of material that extends below the wire or seam of the cups. This piece of material can vary in depth (longline bras have several inches of material below the cups) and it is often cushioned or lined to give extra comfort. A band increases the surface area over which your bust's weight is dispersed so many women like to have a banded bra because it eases the weight of their bust.

Cons: Some women find that a banded bra flips up. This can happen when your midriff protrudes farther out than your band and your body forces against the band. It can also happen if you have a narrow torso and your cups are too wide for you. This problem is irritating more than detrimental to your fit.

Profile Perfect is a Great Bandless Bra with Firm Support

Bandless Bras
Pros: It might surprise you to know that some bras are considered to be without a band. A bandless bra doesn't have any material below the cups. The central gore and wings attach directly to the cups. For women with high tummies or an outwardly flared ribcage a bandless bra can be much more comfortable.

Cons: With less surface area some women find that a bandless bra is less comfortable for them. If you have your band size correct the wings and back band of the bra should be able to take a great deal of your bust's weight.

I love that Claudette use 3 row hooks on all their bras

Bra Hooks
Most bras have three columns of eyes and you should think of these as a timeline. Hook onto the eyes nearest the edge of your band when you first buy a bra then work inwards as the bra ages and stretches. If you buy a new bra that fits you on the middle column, or worse the tightest column, straight away then you're throwing away months of comfortable fit and money!

The number of hooks on the back of your bra gives you an indication of what the support and comfort is like. Similar to the depth of the band, the more rows of hooks on your band the more support you can expect. Very few D+ cup bras have one row of hooks and this is because you need more support than one row for a full bust. Most bras have two rows and this is ample for many women.

Three rows of hooks will give you a deeper back band and again disperse the weight over more area. It also gives you a firmer support (your breasts will move less at the front) and you might find that it helps with your posture.

Some firm support bras have four and even five rows of hooks (longline bras will have many more rows). If you have a very heavy bust or enjoy a very firm fit then extra rows will be great for you.

The wing is the part under your armpit - Tango Beige

Wing Depth
The part of your band that attaches to the outside of your cups under your armpits and stretches around your back is called the wing. The depth of this part of your bra can make a difference to your comfort. If you have a short torso then this can be a particularly important fit issue. Measure the depth of the wing of your most comfortable bra and look for bras with a similar or lesser depth. Claudette is particularly good for shallower wings that improve comfort for women with shorter torsos (they offset the support with 3 rows of hooks on every bra).

Bra Band Size
There are two very simple tests you can do to see if your band size is giving you enough support. The first is to lift your arms straight up in the air. If you band moves up your body (usually exposing breast tissue as it moves) then your band is too big. The second test is to pull your bra away at the front using two fingers. If you can pull your bra away from your body more than a couple of millimeters then your band is too big.

I hope this helps you narrow down the kinds of bands that are going to give you the best fit. If you need help figuring out your size our Free Bra Size Consultation is a great place to start xx

How to Help Friends and Family Find Better Bra Fit

It is wonderful and necessary that women who understand good bra fit share this enthusiasm and knowledge with others. You may know someone in the wrong bra and have tried to share your knowledge but found that you were met with resistance. This reluctance to embrace, or even discuss, good bra fit can cause many of us to get frustrated and disheartened. To try and alleviate the frustration I want to give you some tools when talking to women in badly fitting bras.


1) Your bra knowledge can be seem quite complex and overwhelming for someone else.

When we're excited about something it's easy to forget that not everyone else feels the same way. If you unleash all your bra knowledge onto someone (who may not have actually asked you to share it with them) they won't be able to take it in and the whole thing will seem daunting rather than liberating so they shut down. When this happens I truly understand that it can be frustrating. Why aren't they whipping off their terrible bra and immersing themselves in the joy of good bra fit?! But getting frustrated and cross with someone isn't going to help bring about positive change.

You have to appreciate that change takes time and during this time your consistent (rather than all at once) bra knowledge can lead to big changes for others. Be enthusiastic about how your bra fit has improved your life "I haven't had those horrible headaches since I started wearing the right bra" or "It has meant so much to me to start running again since I got properly fitted for a sports bra." Leading a bra-healthy life is the best example you can set to other women and inspiration always creates longer lasting change than simply telling someone to do something.

2) Your well-meaning "trust me you're in the wrong bra" can be interpreted as "trust me you're wrong" or "trust me, you're an idiot" and no one likes to be told they're wrong or stupid.

The frustration we feel when someone is in the wrong bra is born out of the knowledge that they will be so much happier in the right bra and we want them to be happy because we care about them. Be careful though, it's important not to turn that desire to share joy into making someone else feel bad. One thing I know for certain is that you have to be READY to change your bra fit.

Related Article: The Mental Leap from the Wrong Bra to the Right One

You cannot tell someone else when they are ready for better bra fit, so instead of coercing someone into a bra fitting make yourself available. For example, "Any time you want me to come with you to get a fitting, I'll be there." or "If you ever want me to help you work out your fit and buy some bras to try on at home you only have to ask, I'll have the martinis and measuring tape ready!" Making yourself open rather than appearing frustrated means that when the women in your life are ready to change their bra fit they trust that you will be there and trust that you won't judge them. 

3) You never know how someone's emotional history and self-esteem are bound to their body. 

This is the most important one. We are all a product of our experiences and if you grew up without any bra education then you may have internalized the discomfort, embarrassment and frustration of your ill-fitting bras into something being wrong with you. Avoiding sports, altering what you wear to hide your bust, shying away from public speaking or being noticed in general can stem from years of being in the wrong bra. Many women associate clothing of all types to be a measure of how 'wrong' their body is and so trying on bras will just be another occasion where they feel bad about themselves. Being confronted with lots of bra fitting advice can trigger body insecurity for lots of women.

You may read their reluctance to go bra shopping as stubbornness or stupidity but you have to remember that you don't know that woman's relationship with her body and specifically her breasts. I encounter lots of well-meaning young women berating their Mums for not wearing a better bra and I'm afraid it just won't bring about change. I always suggest that you start with baby steps and build up to a bra fitting with confidence first. It can take years to give someone the confidence to address their bra size so don't get disheartened but instead be part of that woman's journey. Give her the tools to believe she is worth supporting, mentally and physically and let her know that when she's ready to get her bust into a bra that's worthy of her, you'll be there.

Related Articles: These two personal stories of finding the courage to face bra fitting would be good recommendations for someone nervous about trying new bras. Layla's Story and Claudia's Story

I know it can be agonizing to see someone wearing a bra that is obviously painful and unflattering but I also know that you can't make someone prioritize their bra fit (and it's not your responsibility to get other women into the right bra). It's very important we don't segregate women into 'women in the right bras' and 'women wearing the wrong bras' or even more starkly put 'right women' and 'wrong women'. Great bra fit is for everyone we're all just at different stages of our bra journey. The women you know wearing the wrong bras are fortunate that they have you in their lives for when they're ready to take the next step in their bra journey xx

Is Holistic or Tape Measure Bra Fitting Better?

First of all I should probably explain what Holistic Bra Fitting means. Some of you may have been to a lingerie store where the assistant helping you hasn't used a tape measure to determine your size but instead has just looked at you, maybe asked what size you're currently wearing and brought you a bra size to try on.

Holistic bra fitting judges which size you need based on how well your current bra fits, your build, height and posture. Considering how many stores use a tape measure incorrectly to figure out your size (Hello Plus Four Method!) it's not surprising that some stores choose to avoid it completely.

The five main fit signs used to assess size in the holistic approach are:

1) Are the cups spilling over or wrinkling
2) Is the band too loose or tight
3) Does the gore lie flat against the body
4) Are the straps digging into the shoulders
5) Is the band at the same height all the way around the body

Determining your bra size using a tape measure uses the difference between your ribcage measurement and the measurement around the fullest part of your bust to figure out the best band and cup sizes to start with. There are lots of other factors that affect your bra size so this is why the tape measure method should only be used as a starting point as we explain in our Bra Calculator.

Lots of people think that the holistic approach to bra fitting is better than using a tape measure and others think that the tape measure is better. My personal approach is that these two techniques are not mutually exclusive and you should use both to find and maintain your best bra size.

The five fit signs are hugely helpful for working out whether you need a smaller band, larger cup size etc. The reason I don't think you should rely on the holistic signs alone is that they don't give you a base size to work from or towards. Let me explain.

The fit signs are essential for figuring out if you need a different size e.g. a spilling cup says you need a bigger cup

Lots of women who contact Butterfly Collection for a free bra size consultation are wearing a bra band that is six, eight and even ten inches bigger than their body which means they can be up to five band sizes away from their best starting size. If these women relied solely on the holistic approach then they may come down just one band size and still be uncomfortable in their new bra size leaving them more disillusioned with bras and potentially giving up on finding the right size. It would take an awful lot of trial and error to find out which band and cup combination you need based solely on the holistic approach when you're five or six sizes away from your best fit.

Full explanation of Sister Sizing

I recommend using three steps to figure out your best bra size starting point. Let's take an example of a woman wearing a 40E whose bra band is riding up, cups are spilling and straps are digging in. She can find her best bra size starting point this way:

1) She measures around her ribcage and finds that she's a 32 band. She realizes that this is four band sizes smaller than she's wearing right now. This gives her a band size to work toward.

2) Using the sister size chart she works out that to get the same volume on a 32 band as she has now on her 40E she needs to go up four cup letters to a GG.

3) By assessing all of her fit signs she realizes that she is spilling over her cups (NB this might be because the band is so loose the bust isn't contained) She decides to try one cup size larger to stop the spilling so she arrives at a size of 32H.

Left just to use the holistic approach this lady may have just come down to a 38F and would still have significant issues with her fit. By measuring at least around your ribcage and knowing how to use this in conjunction with the fit signs and understanding the band to cup ratio you stand a much better chance of getting to your right bra size faster. xx

Big Boob Phobia!

I am afraid of clowns. I think they have machetes in their trouser-legs and they kill people who go to the circus. The logical side of my brain says there's probably a very small percentage of weapon-wielding, murderous funny-men but nonetheless I feel like crying when I see one. Perhaps the reason so many women have hang-ups about wearing a bra over a D cup is that they are actually suffering from Pectorusgiganticus; Fear of Big Boobs! (a word I just made up, naturally.)

Joking aside, it never ceases to amaze me how many women are afraid of bra letters over a D cup. It makes no difference what label you put on the ratio between your breast mass and your ribcage measurement (sexy right, that's what your bra size refers to) your boobs are still going to be that volume. Letter Phobia doesn't stop your boobs are spilling out of your bra or bouncing around so it's worthwhile getting educated about bra fit and what bra sizes actually mean.

Over several decades we have built up layers of phobias around boobs; women with big boobs are bimbos or promiscuous and they can't play sports or be pain-free. These phobias stem partly from a misogynistic language that keeps women feeling guilty about their bodies (but that's a topic for a whole other dissertation!) and partly from years of dreadful bra fitting knowledge. By fitting knowledge I don't just mean getting a good fitting at a boutique, I mean, being educated about bras.

As we grow up we're educated about periods, why we have them and what to do to manage them as they happen. Imagine never being told why you have periods or how a tampon should feel and work if used correctly. You'd spend your life blindly buying what you thought was best for you and wondering the whole time if there was something wrong with you. This is what we do to young girls about bras. We don't explain that bras should fit snugly at the band, how your cup size is relative to your band size and that breast sizes change regularly (every couple of weeks for some women). If we gave them this knowledge then the phobias around bras would begin to fade away.

It's such an old-fashioned idea that only a professional fitter can tell you about your boobs and bras. Your doctor gives you advice about how to live well (good diet, exercise etc) they don't just prescribe you antacid every time you have heartburn without ever explaining that cutting out fatty foods will stop the problem in the first place. Similarly a good bra-fitter should teach you about your fit, your breast shape, which styles work for you and how to keep an eye on your size. This way you'll understand your breasts and bras and there will be no room for phobia.

I think a lot of women worry that wearing a cup size over a D cup will make them look like they have big boobs. The reality is that a correctly fitting bra will make you look much more contained which makes your boobs look smaller than when they're bashing together somewhere near your waist!

If you think you might be suffering from Pectorusgiganticus then I want you to remember 3 things to try and overcome your phobia:

1) No one else needs to know your bra size so what difference does it make?
2) In the right size bra you won't bounce around or spill out of your cups (the two things that draw the kind of attention that can make you feel uncomfortable)
3) You can take your time but try to keep a piece of your mind open to the possibility that a different bra size could make you feel physically and emotionally better.

To every one of our customers and every reader of this blog I want you to know that you are changing the landscape for future generations of women. By educating yourselves about great bra fit you can pass on that gift and ensure that no-one has to suffer the terrible fear of Big Boobs!! xx

5 Reasons Your Bra Straps Slip

One of the most common problems we see when doing Online Bra Size Consultations for our clients is slipping straps. To help you solve this irritating bra issue here are the top four causes of slipping bra straps.

When you're wearing the correct band size your straps will sit closer together on your band and on your shoulders

1. Your Band is Too Big
If your bra band is more than a couple of inches bigger than your ribcage measurement then the chances are your band is loose enough that it can ride up your back and cause your straps to slip off your shoulders. The proportions of a bra with a bigger band can add to the problem too. For example, even though the cup volume on a 38E is the same as the cup volume on a 32G the straps are slightly closer together on the 32 band than on the 38 band. It's worth checking that your band size is close to your ribcage measurement as this could be the source of your slipping straps.

Solution: Smaller bra band size. Remember you will have to increase your cup size when you reduce your band size so that you don't lose cup volume.

You can see that the strap isn't flush against the body because the breast is lifting the strap.

2. Your Cups are Too Small
Rather than slipping off your shoulders your straps may be 'popping' off your shoulders. If your cups are too small then you have rogue boob spilling out at the top of your cups and this can interfere with how your straps lie against your body. Your straps should lie flat against your body and over your shoulder but if there's stray boob wedging itself under the strap then it can cause your straps to 'pop' off your shoulders. If you have breast tissue spilling at the top, sides (under the armpit) or underneath your cups then this could be the cause of your slipping straps.

Solution: Larger cup. You may be able to keep your same band size and simply increase your cup size. However, you may discover that you need a slightly smaller band once all of your boob is in your cups as some of your breast tissue may have been living in your band rather than the cup. If in doubt we can help you find your best size with a free online size consultation.

3. Your Cups are Too Big
If you have lost some breast volume or your bra cups have stretched out over time then your cups can become too big for you. When you fill your bra cups your breast anchors the cup into place. When part of the cup is empty the cup can move around causing your straps to slip off your shoulders.

Solution: Smaller cup. You will most likely be able to keep your same band size (if you are comfortable in that size and your band doesn't ride up) but reduce your cup size.

If you have a short torso or high set breasts then bras with shorter wires will keep your straps in the right place.

4. Your Bra is Designed for Taller Women
If you are under 5ft 5" (or you have high set breasts) you may find that no matter what size you try your bra straps still slip off your shoulders. This is because the wires are too long for your torso or the height of your breasts so the straps don't sit in the right place. 

Solution: Look for bras with shorter wires that are proportional to your torso length (or breast height).

The racer clip on Panache Sports bra is ideal for sloping shoulders

5. Sloping and Narrow Shoulders
Straps can slip off narrow and sloping shoulders even when you're in the right size so style is really important.

Solution: Look for styles where the straps are set closer together or have a V back where the straps form a V at the back to prevent slipping.  Bras with racer clip backs (like the Panache sports bra above) are also a great option for narrow or sloping shoulders.

See Also: Bras for Narrow and Sloping Shoulders

As well as checking these five tips it's worth making sure you have tightened your bra straps so that your straps are flat against your body but not digging into your shoulders. Bra straps will lengthen as you wear your bra so they need to be adjusted regularly to fit your height. If your band rides up when you shorten your straps then your bra may be old or you need a smaller band size.

Besides finding your best bra size it's equally important to find your best bra styles that compliment your body and breast shape. Finding your best style can eliminate the annoying slipping straps forever! xx